This is still in its infancy stage.
After re-reading it, I should probably call it a FAMartyQ since it
looks like mostly my own opinions. Ah well. No-one has complained yet.
(nor volunteered their help either.
Sniper II - AutoCocker
Worr Game Products
13517 Alondra Blvd
Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670
Written by: Martin Heffron (TIP#096) (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Html Conversion by: Jim Burke (email@example.com)
Table of Contents:
The Worr Games Product AutoCocker is one of the industries most popular
paintball markers. Budd Orr started with his Sniper I and added a Palmer
Persuit type automated cocking system to make the Sniper II AutoCocker.
The MiniCocker, was the next variation. It incorporates a slightly lightened
cocking block, smaller front block, and bottom line. In addition, the MiniCocker
also includes a 20oz. bottle and a LAPCO type finger groove grip.
Note: The following paragraphs refer to a picture.
The GIF file is roughly 30kb.
The body (A in picture) is made of machined aluminum. It has an
upper chamber that houses the bolt (C) and a lower chamber that contains
the main valve, valve spring, hammer, main spring, and a cocking rod (D).
The next main part of the marker is the cocking block (B). The
cocking block connects the bolt in the top chamber to the cocking rod in
The basic idea behind the AutoCocker is to take a pump gun and
replace the pump handle with a piston to pump the gun automatically. Hence
the ram. The ram is controlled by a 3-way valve that is connected to the
trigger. The ram, 3-way, and regulator are located under a cover on the
front of the gun (E). The cocking block connecting rod run down the left
side of the body. It connects the ram to the cocking block.
When the trigger is depressed, the 3-way sends Co2 to the back
of the ram's piston and it in turn pushes the cocking block back. When
this happens, the block pulls the bolt and cocking rod back as well. The
bolt is now open witch allows a paintball to fall into the chamber. The
cocking rod is connected to the hammer, so the hammer is also pulled back
until the sear catches on the trigger.
When the trigger is released, the 3-way routes Co2 into the front
of the piston, pulling the cocking block forward, closing the bolt. The
paintgun is now ready to fire. Depressing the trigger again fires the paintball
and begins the cycle again.
-> Accuracy - - Tops among semis. The MiniCocker tested in PCRI was much
more accurate than any semi they tested. (They have to test the Vector)
-> Reliability - - Used my MiniCocker for a full year without having
to change one o-ring or valve
-> Removable bolt - - The bolt can be removed without tools allowing
you to pull a squeegee through the whole gun.
-> Stock barrel is very accurate.
-> Range - - Closed bolt system is believed to have better range than
open bolt semis.
-> Easy to maintain - - Simple design, once you take time to learn
-> External velocity adj.
-> Gas efficiency said to be equal to most other semis.
-> Removable Barrel - - Can be removed without tools for quick cleaning.
-> Takes time to learn -- If you don't take the time to learn how to fire
the gun correctly, you will chop balls.
-> Liquid -- Causes gun to freeze up.
-> Long trigger pull -- (can be made to fire as fast as an Automag)
-> Bulky -- (if you compare it to an Automag)
-> No ball detente -- IMHO, detente should come with the gun (cheap
-> Bolt pin -- Original pin breaks easily. (1st thing to replace)
Common Problems and Questions
As the proud new owner of an AutoCocker I'm looking towards the collective
wisdom of the P-ballers on the net for some advice. I played with it this
weekend in a completely stock configuration (straight out of the box) and
true to many people's word, I did have some problems, i.e.. double feeding,
chopping balls and such.
A Cooper-T ball detente will solve your double feeding problem.
Chopping problem? Make sure it is set to push the cocking block all the
way back, every time you fire. I've seen mine, every few shots, stop with
a little of the bolt still blocking the feed tube. Almost guaranteeing
a chopped ball.
If you have the self adjusting reg, (still check that the
bolt goes all the way back every time you fire) its probably your trigger
finger. Practice until you get the "all the way back - all the way forward"
What would be the best incremental path a new owner of an AutoCocker would
Ball detente, better push-pin, and a finger groove grip are the first things
I would do. Then get a motor loader. And when you're ready, send it out
for a trigger job.
Other than the detente, you will probably want an expansion
chamber. Be careful. Spent $40 here, $100 there, and pretty soon you're
playing paintball with a $1000 toy.
One other thing, when it was working it worked great! The accuracy compared
to my previous gun, Pro/Lite, was incredible. I've noticed many AutoCocker
owners with sights on their guns, any suggestions.
Cool! Glad it shot well. I prefer to sight down the barrel. If the paint
is flying straight, I can snipe from any range. 1 shot.
Also, what is your opinion of the agitator loaders? Junk or a necessity?
I've heard both.
I went a long time without one. It seemed like just another overpriced
gimmick that is supposed to make your gun better. Then one day, during
a scrimmage against Bad Company, I kept having to shake my gun to get it
to feed. I noticed that every time it would stop up, I would pinch a ball.
I realized that if there is only one ball in the feed tube, the blow-back
causes the ball to bobble a little and the bolt chops it before it drops
into the chamber. If the feeder was feeding, no problems.
How about a Powerfeed? The guy I talked to at Worr Games said they are
not needed. This makes sense, I guess, with the different air system from
No, you don't need a Powerfeed on an AutoCocker. There can be some blowback,
even with the timing set correctly, but it is -much- less than an open
I still need to type up answers for these questions
Any other tips or tricks for the cocker would be great. I have a friend
who is about a master machinist, and two who are gunsmiths, so I may even
be able to handle something technical :-).
Wouldn't a four inch barrel result in poor accuracy? Is it possible to
purchase such a thing with all the upgrades, or do you have to do them,
yourself. Will the Air America system work on the old AutoCocker? How does
the "Rock" system work?
I'm looking into getting an AutoCocker (most of the people I've talked
to who have both a cocker and an Automag swear by the cocker) But my problem
is that I've seen cockers with WELL over a grand in them, are all these
modifications REALLY necessary? And how well does the gun perform stock?
Durability and reliability are very important to me also, so any inf. in
that area would be appreciated also.
Some of the AutoCocker modifications available, and comparative prices
are listed below.
-Cooper-T ball detente $30.00 installed.
-Trigger Job & Tune Up 30.00 installed.
-Stainless Actuator & coupler 15.00 installed.
-Cut Block and Rod 35.00 installed.
-Pro Hammer Kit (Nelson) 45.00 installed.
-"New" Light Rock Regulator 62.00 installed.
-Knob for Rock Regulator 3.00 installed.
-Quick Pull Pin 17.00
-Lapco Grips 17.00
-Venturi Bolt 40.00
A good trigger job will include pinning the trigger to keep it from "wobbling"
when depressed, and limits it's travel to only what is necessary to operate
the sear and 3-way properly.
It is a good idea to put a slightly firmer trigger return springs
in than the owner will eventually want, then use a softer spring after
the break-in period. This allows the 3-way a chance to wear in naturally.
Some people have had 3-ways fail prematurely after being worked.
Paintball Sports of Maryland
15932 B. Shady Grove Rd.
Gaithersburg, Maryland 20877
Contact: John Lee or Todd Barbee
Toll Free (800) 275-7763
Fax (301) 948-8775
P&P Paintball Connection
Authorized GUN F/X Dealer, call for prices.
Available Soon - Anodizing, both standard and custom colors. They will
also be doing custom millwork.
If you don't see what you are looking for, give them a call and they will
get you the product(s) at the best price.
Give them a call for a FREE price list.
Madison Hts., MI 48071
Mods available include:
Your choice of color (Anodizing: blue, green, black, purple red,
Plating: hard chrome, electroless nickel, or sand blasting)
Stainless Steel Actuator Rod & Coupler
Trigger Job and Tune Up
Cut back Block and Rod
Stainless Steel Push Pin
Finger Groove Grips
Nelson Spring Kit
Other Opinions and Comments
Thanks for the inf.. Everyone seems to agree, the Cocker out performs the
Mag, once you get it going right. The best price I found on a Cocker was
$300 vs. $480 for a Minimag. I wanted to buy new (pamper myself) and since
the two are arguably fairly equal, all pros and cons considered, I decide
to go with the lower priced cocker and put the difference towards improvements.
Cool. Good idea.
Probably will help if I describe my style: I tend to be more of a front
line player than a sniper, but I am cautious. Because I am at school I
won't be entering any major tournaments in the near future, and I prefer
to hit what I aim at than to spray paint all over (one reason I went with
the slower, more accurate gun).
Yea, me too, but it sucks when two guys are moving up on you, you put 3
well aimed shots on the first guy, the 2nd guy starts spraying his Automag
all over the place as he runs for cover, and you look down and see that
a lucky shot hit you in the gun. (it happens allot!) Eventually, you will
want a trigger job so you can "give them hell right back!" The best I've
seen was done at Pacific Paintball by Chris. IMHO he's an AutoCocker master.
With the summer coming on, and since I'll be in California, will I need
a new regulator? I was told that a reg or an exp. chamber were a must below
38F. How necessary are they in warmer weather? Does the bottle or bottle
setup affect this?
You don't need anything to play in warm weather. Guns prefer warmer weather
because the liquid Co2 will boil into gas quicker. The idea behind an expansion
chamber is to give the liquid more area to expand into a gas. You want
an Anti-Siphon tank. Imagine the tank mounted horizontally. (bottom line)
They screw on your tank all the way and mark the top. Then they take the
valve off of your tank and put a tube that is bent toward that mark. That
way you the gun won't suck liquid when you start hammering. The problem
is that when the gun starts to cool down from all this cold Co2 going through
it, the gas starts turning back into a liquid.
I just had a ProHammer installed at PP. It uses a softer hammer spring
and supposedly will not pinch balls. That, together with a Turbo-valve
will allow you to play all winter.
[NOTE: All the information from the IRONMEN was provided by Zander.
- - Jim]
IRONMAN on Bud's new regulator
I have the new reg on my mini-cocker and have played both the world
cup and Nashville with it. It has worked excellently and I never have to
fiddle with it. It has a pressure switch built into it that stops CO2 from
coming in once the pressure gets up to a certain point. This not only helps
prevent liquid from going through the valving but it keeps the regulation
consistent as well. Essentially it is just a regulator with a pressure
operated back check valve.
IRONMAN on Auto-Cocker Performance
Zander, What does Bud Orr's new regulator offer that the Rock doesn't?
My local shop sells them at the same price. The salesperson said that two
Disadvantages to Bud's is that it doesn't have a blow off valve, and isn't
The reason Bud's new reg is not externally adjustable is 'cause it is self
adjusting. The only thing the internal adjust does is set the outside tolerances
for the self adjusting mechanism. There is no need for a blow off valve
that I have ever seen. The reg. has a liquid control valve inside it so
that when the pressure in the line goes up the reg shuts off the in flow
until the liquid inside it has been shot out. The reg. is also completely
modular so anything you have to do to it is easier, and if you want a different
size expansion chamber you could have one made. All I know beyond that
is that it works great in all temps. which the stock one does not. Also
it means that it makes the gun more idiot proof approaching the less experienced
player market is the goal in that of course. Zander of the IRONMEN
Wednesday April 06 1994 11:22, Raymond Yam wrote to All: I have not tried
it but have heard that Bob Long, Captain of the Ironmen also makes a venturi
bolt for the AutoCocker. His version is reported to be lighter then Smart
Parts. A friend of mine is going to get it in a few weeks. I will report
Hmmmmm..... I was under the impression the Ironmen were using On-Target
venturi bolts. Maybe not. I've tested the On-Target bolts, and found them
to be excellent. At least, shooting about 1,000 balls in a day without
a single ball break in my 'cocker tells me they don't break balls.
- -John Hamilton
IRONMAN on A-C Velocity
How Does the Auto-Cocker perform in game situations?
Since I play for Bud Orr's Factory team I am going to give you a positive
review of this gun. I will point out though that I was playing with his
products by choice before we were sponsored and we sought him out because
we felt that his products were the best.
The Auto or Mini Cocker is one of the most widely used guns
on the tournament circuit. The only other gun that comes close is the Automag.
The Auto-Cocker uses a pneumatic ram activated by a 3-way switch
on the trigger. This accounts for its longer trigger pull than the Automag.
If you buy one be sure that you get one of the very new ones with the new
self adjusting regulator, it works great and means that you will never
have to adjust anything regarding air pressure again.
I have played the last two tournaments with my Mini and that is
the model I recommend. It costs $100.00 more but you get a Bottom Line,
20oz. anti-siphon, lightened bolt and block, and a better trigger pull
than the Auto. This is about $175.00 worth of stuff so it is worth it.
Also it is shorter and lighter.
It is by far one of the most accurate guns ever made and with
the Brass J & J barrels it is amazing. It's firing rate is comparable
to the Automag when correctly timed (about 7-8 balls a sec) , but has a
longer trigger pull. It is fairly heavy, I personally like it, it gives
a flatter bead in rapid firing, but does take a toll on the arms in long
or hilly games.
Zander of the IRONMEN
IRONMAN on Mod's
Why does the velocity increase after shooting the cocker for a while?
The increase in velocity is something that has occurred due to the new
lighter valve springs now being put in the gun. What happens is when you
stop shooting for a while gas expands in the gun and puts back pressure
on the valve. Then you tune it in and the valve is not opening fully. Then
when you have been shooting for a while, colder more condensed CO2 comes
through and this back pressure stops and you all of a sudden get a vel.
increase. This is especially true with expansion chambers. Ways to stop
it: Use Bottles acclimated as best as possible, Disconnect bottles in between
games, Dry fire a lot to equalize everything before tuning gun.
Okay, lets see if this helps ... The gun usually begins to rise during
a game which is when it is constantly firing. I.e. not stopping very long
and if so only long enough to move up on opponents etc...... If you still
feel that the problem is still the same then is there a more permanent
way to fix it? Firing the gun (dry fire) is not really an option because
it would en up burning up more parts on the gun. Can the spring be replaced
or the valve and correct it? BTW the tank IS disconnect between games (remote
quick disconnect). Thanks! Mike
[NOTE: The above paragraph actually appearsthat way in the FAQ.
If someone has a fix for it, will they please send it to me? - - Jim]
I used to get all my work done at Foxhunters but their airsmith
is gone now.
Now LAPCO, Air America, and Swiftline do all our work. I would
say with confidence however that Skip Swift at Swiftline does the best
Bud Orr modification on the planet and that is probably why he is the only
authorized Worr Games East.
Yes the rock and the Air America device are redundant that is
why the combo woks twice as well as just one. The only difference I would
say is that the America chamber actually stops the liquid before entering
the gun with multiple expansion, filters, and re-expansion chambers and
is machined for the gun. It isn't one of those 3.5oz. retro fit things.
This allows for the CO2 to be hard-tapped back to the bottom line which
gives the gun a front grip and a generally custom and slick appearance.
The rock allows liquid already in the gun to expand further and allows
for you to shoot liquid if you have to, while giving you a far more sensitive
adjustment on the regulator. All these things significantly increase the
life of your ram and keep you playing in cold temps. The porting I mentioned
is a widening and honing of certain CO2 passages in the gun as well as
drilling holes and machining excess to lighten parts that either don't
need to be as heavy or perform better lighter. The other modifications
Swift does are: Drilling a special hole through the top of the receiver
and hammer so that the sear adjustment can be fine tuned without taking
the trigger assembly off. He grinds the main spring so it doesn't rub the
firing pin. He also puts an allen screw through the back of the trigger
assembly that can be adjusted to fine tune the trigger pull. He lightens
the bolt and generally streamlines all the internals so that they mate
perfectly, thus negating any manufacturing sloppiness. I hope this answers
your questions if there is anything else don'thesitate to ask.
IRONMAN on trigger job
Alexander Franklin Rose <firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Ken and All,
I am very sorry to hear about the way you were treated by John and
I had hoped that he would have at least by now told you what you spent
$60.00 on. Obviously he realizes how simple a trigger job is and does not
want people to try it at home. I have never seen John's work to my knowledge
so I am speaking of the trigger jobs that I have seen and done.
This is what a good trigger job for $60.00 should include as I
Trying to help, Zander of the IRONMEN
LAPCO Stainless 3-way rod and coupler
Removal of safety
Polishing of the trigger and sear faces
Either honing the 3-way barrel, or lathing out a few thousandths from under
the 3-way O rings for smoother action.
A timing adjustment with the 3-way, hammer sear, and bolt clearance.
New softer sear springs.
IRONMAN on Auto-c.
Bill, I'm no rocket scientist, though I have a background in fluid mechanics.
I think it is plausible the balls would begin to function as a column,
and extending the drop tube would increase the pressure the column applies
to the lowest point of the column, i.e., the ball entering the breach.
In addition, the longer drop tube would create a buffer. By this, I mean
that if you are missing three balls from a standard elbow, the pressure
on the ball entering the breach is very small. The longer the drop tube,
the less affect slow feeding will have, as long as some dropping is taking
place. In fact, part of what a power feed does is simulate a very long
drop tube in a very compact space. If you look at the ramp in the power
tube, and where the vent is beside the ramp, you see that it uses the 3-5
balls above the ramp to press on the two balls below the ramp, and the
ramp amplifies the effect, as well as maintains a more even pressure. A
longer drop tube, with venting placed in the right place, would do virtually
the same thing, it would simply stick up higher.
[I guess the following was posted to rec.games.paintball by Bill M. with
a response by John Hamilton - - Jim]
As John Hammilton pointed out in a previous thread regarding power feeds,
a well timed semi-auto will have little to no blow-back. This is especially
true, I'm sure with the auto-cocker's closed bolt firing configuration.
It is also relevant, when speaking about the 'cocker, that a mere 1/4 turn
of the actuator rod collar either way from the "sweet spot" will induce
increased blow back through the drop tube. In addition, we've had problems
when switching out the stock o-rings on the bolt in favor of PMI-3 upper
bolt o-rings, since the latter won't seal quite as well. We are searching
for an o-ring with a slightly higher profile ("taller") made of the same
material, so we can keep the low friction coefficient of the PMI o-rings
but get a slightly better seal. A stock bolt with stock o-rings, and a
properly timed 3-way, will feed just fine through a standard elbow with
a VL2000 at any rate of fire you can achieve. Its just that the stock o-rings
inhibit cycle speed and strain the ram, and getting a 'cocker to stay properly
timed all the way through a game is a miracle.
True, the downward acceleration on the pellets in the tube will
be the same for each pellet, but increase the number of pellets, and you
have just increased the overall force. Example: a column of 10 pellets
would exert a downward pressure 5 times that of a column of 2 pellets.
Since the pellet waiting at the bottom of the tube would be supporting
the weight of more pellets, it would more quickly overcome the friction
of the surrounding surfaces, etc. and chamber faster. I would think the
laws of hydraulics would be the closest analogy possible here, the pellets,
are just much larger than water molecules.
- - John Hamilton
IRONMAN on Auto-C. Kit
The Auto Cocker High Performance Pro Kit comes with the following:
This kit is available at I & I Sports 310.715.6800 in Gardena California.
All parts are ones used and tested by me personally and the IRONMEN. I
compiled this kit from people all over the US. so that people could get
their Cockers to their optimum tournament efficiency. The kits intro. price
WGP new self regulating regulator . . . requires no adjusting & works
w/liquid 2. Clipper ram kit . . . faster action
LAPCO stainless 3-way rod . . . adjustable for fine timing adjust
IRONMEN bore drop extension(by J&J) . . . increase pressure on balls
= faster feed
Stainless Fast pin . . . push button bolt fast pin
K-C synth. low temp.oil . . . doesn't gum up bolt in low temps.
Extra replacement hose . . . for ram and regulator
Full instructions and operating tips by me Zander of the IRONMEN and a
computer generated and labeled diagram to help you.
If you want to know what else we use on our guns we all use Air
America Thumpers, J & J performance brass barrels, and 20 oz. anti-siphon
All of which are available at I & I Sports. (*we are not sponsored
by I & I as a team)
IRONMAN on tune ups
IRONMAN on Auto-C. reliability
Question #1 what bolts do the Ironmen use?
We mostly use lightened aluminum polished bolts modified from stock ones
by Swiftline in Connecticut. Some of use especially those of us with unanodized
receivers use the Zylatron two O ring bolt from LAPCO. (If you have an
unanodized receiver and an unanodized aluminum bolt up against each other
they cause a lot more friction and can even seize up the gun)
#2 Which is the best Bud Orr auto trigger?
The best auto trigger is the one that Foxhunters in Castro Valley Ca. used
to do but the business was sold so I don't know if the new ownership still
does them. However Skip at Swiftline does a version of the same thing.
It is a rod that comes out of the safety hole on the trigger assembly (like
all Sheridan type auto trig's) but a section of the receiver where the
pump arm slides is hollowed to allow an adjustable fitting which in turn
is bolted to a small brass tube arm that slides up and down on the rod
from the trigger assembly. I know this sounds hoaky but if you saw it you
would realize how slick it actually is.
#3 How do you smooth out the sniper II?
Send your gun to Skip at Swiftline, look him up under Swiftline or Worr
Games East in the mags or Connecticut inf.. Otherwise Get one of the newest
and shortest Smart Parts barrels. Get the aforementioned autotrigger. Get
the new quick release bolt and a stainless fast pin. You can find the fast
pins in sail boat stores. Or you can order the whole assembly from LAPCO.
Grind down the ends of your mainspring so that they are flat. Use a motor
loader. That's all I can think of if you need specifics about certain areas
buzz me again. Zander of the IRONMEN
Next I have one Mini-cocker and one pump gun. Both of which have
had work done but nothing that extraordinary. They both have worked unquestionably
at every game and tournament I have attended. Some people don't mesh well
with the gun. It all boils down to some fine tuning and knowledge of how
to handle it. Some people do real well with it some don't. Bud's new self
adjusting regulator is a step that he is making in that more user friendly
direction. The biggest problem people have with the gun usually boils down
to regulation or timing. So between that and the LAPCO adjustable 3 way
rod and coupler you should be fine.
IRONMAN on Mini-Cocker Specifics In-Reply-To:
How much has the weight been decreased? How good is the accuracy compared
to the AutoCocker (with the very short barrel that apparently is supplied)?
Has it got any other features the AutoCocker doesn't have? How much is
one of those in the states? I've also heard that it is supposed to be made
in a limited edition only, is this correct? Another question which goes
as well for the AutoCocker is about the ball retention spring, like the
one the Illustrator has, that can be fitted. Is it an essential thing?
Does the Ironmen use it (I guess one of these questions really is enough)?
How much would such an operation cost? The last question: the AutoCocker
unit? What about it? How much is it? How necessary is it for colder climates?
Will these questions ever end? Can anybody answer them?
MY RESPONSE, I can answer most of these. Another question that was asked
which I will answer first is; Is the Mini-Cocker better in low temperature
than the Mini-mag? This as in most things in Paintball is a matter of preference.
The thing is, is that neither gun performs well in real cold conditions
and below 40 de. F (or 5 deg. C for our European players) it is better
to just play with a solidly built pump gun like a Sheridan base, Sterling,
or my favorite the Sniper 2. However in the cold with semis there are two
big things to weigh, they are: That the Auto/Mini cocker system usually
just slows down when filled with liquid and can be cleared usually just
by disconnecting and reconnecting the bottle. And the other: That the Auto/Mini
mas are super light and easier guns to get to know. The other thing is
that there are some great aftermarket products like the AIR AMERICA filter/expansion
chamber ($300.00) and the "ROCK" regulator by Palmer's Pursuit (under $50.00
I am fairly sure) Both are built just for the AUTO/MINI- Cockers which
can almost completely stop liquid, in any temperature above 35 deg. F anyway.
I tested this myself with the new Mini Cocker and an anti-siphon twenty
ounce that was over filled and it took me fifty shots straight down to
get liquid into the gun and about ten shots to get it back out again shooting
level. The point is that I could actually use the gun under 40 deg. F.
The next problem was that when I rapid fired for a while it iced the bottle
and I would have to change it all the time. I do not know how to stop this.
The mini-cockers weight has been reduced about 20% from the Auto-Cocker.
The accuracy is excellent, exactly what you would expect from all Budd
Orr stuff. (There is a considerable crack with the new 4 inch barrel though)
The only new features besides its lightness and smallness are: Stainless
fast bolt pin with push button detent balls, All hand built and customized
to itself (i.e.. burnished ground and polished to take out any imbalances
that occur with larger production) built in bottom line, vented front cover,
anodized and lightened bolt. and a bunch of other little things. cost is
$550.00 US. with 20 oz. and bottom line. Yes it limited edition, however
I have a feeling that it is just on a more by order basis, I don't think
they will actually deny someone one when they reach a certain production
number. The last thing is the ball detent. Yes it is worth it on any Sniper
or Cocker, especially in cold weather or when shooting small bore paint.
Yes all of the IRONMEN use it and I think the modification is $45.00 by
LAPCO in San Diego CA. And the "rock" regulator by Palmer is essential
for cold weather too but even better is the AIR AMERICA unit and all three
of these things with an anti- siphon or especially a remote, it is almost
impossible to get liquid into the gun. How's that for answers? Anything
more please post it.
Zander of the IRONMEN
Written by: Martin Heffron (email@example.com) TIP #095
Bad Boys (MD)
Copyright © 1992-2012
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