Note: Please send all corrections and comments to me directly by email to the above address. All info and comments not accompanied by an email address and first name are my own. Those that send info and comments to me will have and email address and first name attached for reference purposes.
This file is available via anonymous FTP at caticsuf.cati.csufresno.edu under the name ~ftp/pub/rec.sport.paintball/FAQ/pro-am.faq
A text version is also kept on-line for easy reference.
Both guns come with, at minimum, wire squeegee, extra mainspring, allen wrenches for velocity adjustment and breakdown, operators manual, lube, barrel plug, and a Tippmann patch. Many Pro/Am packages include an excellent hard plastic carrying case that stores all of the above nicely. Tippmann used to send out a video with their guns, but have recently discontinued this practice.
"2500 - 5500: Tippmann used a plastic foregrip, larger rear sight, and delrin front bolt. Foregrip had a tendency to split apart at the seams. Tippmann logo was an insert of the left side of gun, and serial numbers were postion on the right side of gun.
"9000 - 12000: the next upgrade I'm aware of was the improved
rear valve, porting of elbow (reduce blowback), and ported barrel."
-- Henry Chan <email@example.com>
The gun's mainspring provides the energy required for the forward movement of the bolt. The sear (located below the rear bolt) keeps the bolt open until the trigger is pulled.
The valve body and power tube do not move inside the gun. The power tube is held in place by a lip inside of the receiver at the power tube's front, by the valve body at the rear, and by the velocity adjustment screw. The valve body is held in place by the power tube in front and by a small square of metal fitting through a slot in the bottom of the receiver and into a slot in the bottom of the valve body.
_________ ____________________ Power tube ___ / \ | | _______/ / _| valve |_ | rear bolt |main spr. _______ _ body _| | |\\\\\\\\\ \||\ | | | _______________ | || \_______|_/ |_/ / \__| vel. adj.-^ | | | / / screw | | / /sear \___/ | | CO2 hose to CA | |When the trigger is pulled the sear releases the rear bolt. The main spring propels the bolt forward until it strikes the rear of the valve body. The impact of the rear bolt against the valve body causes a valve in the valve body to open. This valve causes two bursts of CO2 to be ejected from the valve body, one out the front of the valve body, one out the rear.
The CO2 burst ejected from the front of the valve body travels through the power tube, past the velocity adjustment screw, out the front of the power tube, through the front bolt (not pictured above), then against the paintball in the barrel--propelling the ball out of the gun. The CO2 burst ejected from the rear of the valve body causes the rear bolt to recoil, compress the main spring, then catch itself on the sear--effectively recocking the gun.
The front bolt (pictured below) is connected to the rear bolt via a rod that passes over the top of the valve body and power tube. The front bolt is essentially a short, hollow tube that surrounds the front part of the power tube. The front bolt only serves to push a ball into the barrel, then to guide the CO2 burst from the power tube through to the ball.
________________________ <-connecting rod / \ /-\ -------|- /-| --------- -|------------------ | | ========= | | | | | \-/ --------- \-| --------- -------------------- ball font bolt ^ valve body rear bolt | \--power tubeIt is clear that there are three areas of the gun that effect velocity:
The amount of pressure from your power source directly effects velocity. Should pressure in your power source change (i.e., bottle heats up or cools down), velocity of your projectile will change also. This is why Tippmann suggests the use of a siphon bottle when playing in cold weather, or to encourage consistent velocity--the liquid CO2 will always be at the same pressure when it enters the system.
The velocity adjustment screw serves to restrict or liberate the flow of CO2 through the power tube. Screwing the screw into the power tube restricts the flow and causes lower velocities. Backing the screw out of the power tube increases flow and causes higher velocities.
To "field strip" the gun.
Reassembly isn't too tricky:
Once you have the hose detached from the valve body fitting, use a socket (forget the size, might need a deep socket too) to get the brass fitting out of the valve body. I have been able to do this with a regular open ended wrench, but I highly advise using a socket in this situation. You'll have to push the valve body forward, by working the socket onto the fitting, in order to get it seated properly. The valve body does move forward against the power tube, it just takes some pressure.
Taking the valve body out of the gun's main body is something you should certainly do every once in a while. This area around the valve body seems to be the "dirtiest" in the gun. It collects lots of grime and way too much aluminum filings and other junk that I don't think you want finding its way into other parts of your gun.
I completely disassemble my pro/am after every weekend of use. But then, I am confident I can take it down without causing damage or wear on its parts. I also find cleaning my paintguns a labor of love.. :) I'd recommend that normal people take the valve body out and clean it about once every 10-20 uses.
I *do* recommend field stripping the gun after every use. Be sure to keep that rear bolt clean and well lubed, as it will rust if it sits too long with moisture. Use the corners of a rag to get as much paint (if any) out of the chamber area of the gun.
Barrel Price Length Materials Rifling Comments ------------------------------------------------------------------ Tippmann Sniper $40 16" Aluminum Some, Not as accurate as internal other third party barrels. SmartParts $89 16" Stainless External Very Accurate, but not so easy to clean. Quiet. Armson $90 13" Aluminum Internal Very accurate, but loud. J&J $50+ Many Brass/ Internal/ HardChrome Smoothbore
"The SpeedFeed replaces the entire front grip of the Pro/Am and provides a PowerFeed type (You can still slide it up to run a squeegee through in a game) It blocks your sighting a little bit, so instead of looking down the barrel, look at your victim and adjust on him. The balls feed fast through the speedfeed. If your loader is feeding, your speedfeed will be dumping them into the chamber really quickly. And there is no blowback up into the hopper since it takes that 90 degree turn, so a ball is always ready to feed quickly. Similar to the automag (in idea at least) it has a little knob you can turn to stop balls from flowing into the chamber. The knob is a little stiff but it works.
"It's a good thing to have. I like it and I know quite a few players
that have them. Check Central Ohio Paintball supply's price on them,
they used to have them for $65, some places run to about $70 or so, I'm
not sure what the going rate is."
If your Pro/Am has a serial number less than about 10,000, your gun may have the "old" internals. These older internals had shorter front and rear bolts, and a longer valve body. The new internals have longer front and rear bolts, with a shorter valve body. Tippmann will upgrade the internals and give you a Sniper Barrel for $80. Tippmann says the new internals reduce "blow back" in the gun.
Composite Foregrip and Pistol Grip
Tippmann will put the composite foregrip and pistol grip found on the Pro/Lite onto your Pro/Am for $50.
"If and when you break a ball, you'll discover the OEM wire squeegee
does a so-so job of cleaning out the barrel during a fire-fight. Get
yourself a Straight-Shot squeegee or a power squeegee (has four or five
neoprene washers) which will remove all the paint in one pass."
"Pro-Am: I shot one that a friend had just bought. I was surprised at
how well it is made. It's a very solid gun. Good points: Price. You
can get a Pro-Am package deal from I&I for about $345 and have
everything you need to go out and play. The feeder slides forward to
allow you to run a sgueegie through the gun. Great idea but I did see
one break. (I'm sure it's covered under warranty) This gun works on
liquid or gas so you probably won't have any problems in the winter.
Bad points: No versitility. The tank screws into the bottom of the
handle and that's it. (unless you go remote) The trigger gard is also
the tube for the CO2 supply into the gun. I personally don't like
open-bolt guns because they are clunky."
-- firstname.lastname@example.org (Martin E. Heffron)
"I personally have a Pro-Am. I have one that numbered in the 12000s
and they're producing Pro-Am's in the 15000s. They sell really good
considering I only got mine in October. All I can say is good
things. The gun is sturdy, very well balanced, accurate and as we
all know, Tippman has the best customer service in the industry. The
gun is also real simple to strip, clean and reassemble. With
practice, it can all be done within 10 minutes. I can strip, clean,
oil and reassemble the gun in probably less than 10 minutes now. This
is a real bonus on the field if something goes wrong, but it probably
won't since the Pro-Am is mechanically pretty reliable."
--email@example.com (Hans Lo)
"...Moving on to Tippmann themselves... I don't have any experience
with other manufacturers customer service, but the experience I _DO_
have with Tippmann makes me a firm follower of their goods. They
treat you right and ask little in return. I borrowed a friends 68
Special that he was trying to sell. I inadvertently finished off the
already damaged trigger spring. I searched locally for a replacement
and came up zero. Finally, I called Tippmann and asked about it,
they shipped me a replacement free of charge and I had the
replacement in hand within 3 days of my phone call. Installation was
a little work, but not much. With my Pro/Am, I sent it back for
upgrade and minor work three times. Each time was with out problem,
and I received the piece back within a week or so of shipping you
decide to go with the Tippmann Pro/Am or ProLite,
I doubt you'll be disappointed."
--firstname.lastname@example.org (David Stidham)
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