Vector FAQ

Index:

• Design Goals
• Stock Features
• Good Points
• Questionable Points
• Bad Points
• Air Power Tips
• Other Aftermarket Products
• 1993 and 1994 Vectors
• 1993 Vector Problems
• 1994 Vector Upgrades
• Anti-Pinch Feature Explained
• Velocity Adjustments
• Barrels
• Spare Parts
• Parts Kit
• Common Problems and Answers
  • 1993 Vector Only
  • 1993 and 1994 Vector
• Suggested Improvments
• Maintenance
• Behind the Scenes
• Physical Specs
• Why to Buy
• The Big Picture
• Where to Buy

Design Goals

Stock Features

Good Points

Questionable Points

Bad Points

Air Power Toys

Other Aftermarket Products

1993 and 1994 Vectors

The upgrade is free of charge, but will take awhile. I was quoted at eight weeks to perform the upgrade. For an additional $49, you can get another year's worth of warranty on your rebuilt Vector.

1993 Vector Problems

1994 Vector Upgrades

Anti-Pinch Feature Explained

With your index finger, just flip on the safety (a lever right above and forward of the trigger, on the side of the gun) and you'll hear a slight whoosh as the gun recocks and resets. Flip down the safety (off) and fire again. When the gun recocked, the ball should have fallen into the chamber. This resetting procedure takes about 1/2 second if you know what you are doing.

I have heard of balls so badly deformed that they will not drop when reset -- to clear this jam, you have to either pop off the barrel, (press a button and pull) or pull off your hopper. (note: some tourneys are changing rules so that barrel removal is forbidden)

On an average day with average paint and high rate of fire, expect to reset your Vector 4-5 times a day. Don't think of it as four resets; think of it as zero ball chops/barrel bursts.

Velocity Adjustment

To set the Vector at maximum velocity it is not necessary to back the screw all the way out. Back the screw out until it is flush with the adapter body. Now slowly twist it in until you feel a slight resistance. (it will be several turns) When you feel this resistance, you have just hit the piston. Turning firther will push the piston forward and compress the valve spring. When the valve spring is fully compressed, the pin can barely move, and the cup will not put hardly any air in your barrel. This adjustment in no way effects the air going to the regulator and it's 100 psi for the action.

This in effect changes the spring size in your valve. Note when installing a regulator, you need to fully open the valve system. Remove the set screw and the piston. Put them in a bag with some oil in case you need them later. Failure to remove these items will result in a maximum velocity below 300 fps. This procedure is not covered in your regulator booklet/manual unless you bought a Thruster.

Barrels

The NRG barrel has the port moved to the top for increased rate of feed. This required the raised site rail to be removed and replaced with a side-mount scope rail. Rate of fire is tested at 8-10 shots per second, depending on whose finger is on the trigger.

AP also offers a shorter barrel, which lowers the effective length from 13" to 8", and reduces the overhang of the barrel from 6" to 1". Reduced accuracy is expected, but not confirmed. It is neither ported nor braked.

Accuracy of the Vector with its stock 13" barrel is apparently unmatched, as the Vector has never lost a 5-man or 10-man target shoot. (at the American Opens)

Spare Parts

Barrel              $ 75    
Site Base           $ 20  
HP Line             $ 25
Barrel Mount        $ 45   
Adapter Pin         $  4  
HP Line Cover       $ 20
Drive Pin           $  4    
Bolt Head Slider    $ 20  
Action Power Unit   $200
Hammer              $ 25    
Receiver **         CALL  
Valve Seat **       $ 30
Valve Shaft         $ 20    
Return Spring       $  2  
Velocity Piston     $  5
Adapter Body **     $ 40    
4-Way Valve         $100  
Valve Arm **        $ 20
Trigger Sear        $ 20    
Trigger Assembly    $ 30  
Side Cover **       $ 30
ForeGrip            $ 27    
Pistol Grip         $ 25 
Parts Kit           $ 40

Parts Kit

O-rings (black rubber)         
----------------------- 
1:  6.5 x 2  OD x width  
2:  7.5 x 2   (in mm) 
1:  8.0 x 2   (+/- .3mm)
2: 11.5 x 2        
2: 18.0 x 2   
1: 20.0 x 1 (adapter body) 
1: 24.0 x 2

Screws
--------------------------------------------
1:  2.5 x 3.0 coarse   thread length x width
4:  4.5 x 3.0 course    (in mm)
2:  6.0 x 3.5 fine      (+/- .5mm)
2:  9.0 x 3.5 fine
2: 15.5 x 3.5 fine
2: 19.0 x 3.0 coarse

Springs                 
-----------------------------
1: 15 x  5.5 x 0.8  (height x
1: 19 x  8.7 x 1.0   turns x
1: 45 x 11.0 x 1.4   wire OD
1: 52 x 10.7 x 1.2   in mm)

Wrenches   
---------------------
1: 1.5 short  (in mm)
1: 2.0 long 
1: 2.5 long 
1: 3.0 short   

Washer (firing)
------------------
1: 13 x 8 x 1.25
    	(OD x ID x width)
	(in mm)
	(clear Teflon®?)

IMHO, $35 is too much to pay for this stuff. Just order the list below and get anything else you need at the hardware store:
- all springs
- four or more of [20.0 x 1] O-ring (for the adapter body, only $.50 ea)
- clear washer (seals valve port with power tube assy, hard to see if dropped)

Not Included:
- detent spring (although you have a detent screw...)
- 1st or 2nd trigger spring (watch the little one when assembling/ disassembling)
- barrel release spring

Common Problems and Answers

1993 Vector only

- Gun fires but gas leaks down the barrel:

a) Power tube seal is bad.
b) Power tube spring is weak

- Gas excessively leaks down the barrel:

a) broken or cracked power tube.

- Difficult or impossible to adjust velocity (without Thruster):

a) Power tube spring is weak

b) Power tube needs to be lubed

c) power tube is cracked

- Trigger does not pull back

a) broken trigger sear

1993 and 1994 Vector

- Trigger pulls but gun doesn't fire:

a) reset safety

b) check sear spring

c) check hopper for broken balls, dump and reload if necessary

- Air leaks near where tank meets adapter body

a) bad adapter body O-ring(s)

- Air leaks from behind "Vector" nameplate

a) high pressure line o-ring not seated properly

b) high pressure line leaking, warranty repair

Suggested Improvements

• make the anti-chop feature able to be shut off if wanted
  • AP, "this cannot be done"
• make the trigger flip the safety instead of firing if it's tripped
  • AP, "this cannot be done"
• make an auto-response/double-trouble trigger
  • AP has no plans to make one
• offer a lightened/milled out block (possibly top on the "wish list")
  • AP claims most of the weight is in the action, and does not plan to offer this
• make Teflon® o-rings for the valve body
  • AP is the ONLY source of the regular rubber o-rings, but is considering making a composition change. Until then, users are advised to remove the adapter body only when necessary.
• include a minimal parts kit with the gun

Maintenance

(gee that was tough, eh?)

When things are really bad, (like the day I took five gun hits to the elbow.....) I do the above, plus:
- remove front handgrip
- remove trigger plate
- remove pommel
- clean paint from grip, pommel, plate, and block
- put a drop of oil on each of the trigger parts
- reassemble

You'll only need to pull the action maybe once every other month to clean and grease it up. Follow the instructions in the manual, they're pretty good. I recommend not removing the 4-way though -- you can still remove the AP unit without unplugging hoses or removing the 4-way. Taking the action out is harder than putting it back in, and watch out for that trigger spring!

Behind the Scenes

Here is what happens when you pull the trigger:
(forgive the lack of technical terms, my manual is at home)
- trigger is pulled
- trigger arm presses past trigger lever
- trigger lever pivots, releases valve arm (safety holds valve arm if on)
- valve arm pivots, 4-way opens
- 4-way sends air charge to action/power unit
- AP unit pulls ram/hammer/bolt back
- bolt pushes ball into barrel
- hammer reaches sear roller
- at the same time:
- - sear roller pivots sear
- - sear pivots valve arm
- - sear releases ram
- - 4-way closes
- hammer pushes away from ram powered by main spring, towards valve
- 4-way sends 2nd air charge to AP unit (different line and port)
- hammer hits valve
- AP unit begins to move ram/bolt forward (yes the ball has not fired yet)
- very short, high volume air charge released from valve, travels up power tube and fires the ball
- AP unit continues to push ram/bolt and compress main spring
- main spring fully compressed, sear locks hammer and ram together
- user releases trigger

Vector is now recocked and ready to fire again

If a ball stops the bolt from moving forward, the action stops. The 4-way is still open, therefore the Action Power Unit is still pulling the ram, bolt, and hammer forward. Leaving the Vector in this state for long could eventually pinch the ball in half. (and fire the gun) Flipping the safety on pivots the valve arm (normally done by the ram) and causes the 4-way to close and the trigger sear to catch it. When the 4-way closes, the ram just goes back to the valve along with the hammer, and opens the bolt, and the ball should then drop into the chamber. Don't forget to flip the safety off.

If the trigger is pulled with the safety on, the valve arm will not pivot, and the gun will remain in its cocked state. There is very little difference in the "feel" of the trigger pull of a Vector on safety or not.

One of the reasons for the high rate of fire is that the gun does not have to wait for the user to release the trigger to complete recocking. The Vector relies on its own internal timing to complete the firing cycle as fast as possible. No short stroking.

Another factor is that the gun CANNOT be fired faster than the mechanism works. If you rig up a machine to pull the trigger faster than the Vector can cycle, the vector will simply not cycle during those times the trigger is pulled and it is not ready. No ball chops or jams.

If you are looking for a *reliable* gun, the Vector is for you. Besides something outright breaking, the only thing that can break down on a Vector is if the 4=way "moves". This means the 4-way's position relative to the valve arm has changed. (it's adjustable for timing reasons) To reset this, you must remove 6 screws and adjust two more, all with the same allen wrench. To date, I have not heard of anyone needing to make this adjustment.

(how many mags have you seen break down? how many cockers? Ever seen a "bad cocker day" on your field? ;-) not a pretty sight!)

Physical Specs

• handgrip, foregrip

• barrel, body, sight rail, CA adapter, cover plates, trigger, power tube, all black anodized, hammer, normal (the body is one solid block of machined aluminum)

• action, trigger mech, pins/screws, valve mech, hammer striker, sear
  

Why to Buy

A Vector over an Automag:
- no short-stroking
- no freeze-ups
- stock barrel is already accurate
- no foamies!
- no need for power-feed
- easier cleaning
- balance is perfect with a '20 on the back
- no breakdowns
- no shoot-downs
- still works in November, December, and January
- no chops
- no HP seals (except the cup seal of course)
- shoots faster, even w/trigger job on the mag
- has no need for expansion chambers

The Big Picture

For the best info, call Nick Lotuaco, president of Air Power. Ask for him at Air Power @ (804) 486-8114.

Where to Buy

Update! Best price is at Draco - Vector with 12 oz tank for $490.
10/26/94

^®Teflon is a registered trademark of DuPont