STINGRAY FAQ

1.2 INTRODUCTION:
This FAQ is intended for people using or wishing to buy the Brass Eagle/Daisy Stingray. The Stingray is the Tinker's paintgun. The parts are extremely cheap (Barrel - $3.50), the materials can be worked with ordinary tools most humans keep in their house, and the design is simple yet effective. The Stingray is also great for a beginner because of its low price, yet with some simple do-it-yourself mods you can kick some *ss all the way up to tourney level (despite what the 'Cocker-Suckers and Automaggots have to say :-). This FAQ contains information on the marker, how to maintain it, how to modify it, and some other useful stuff. Enjoy, enjoy!!!

1.3 GENERAL INFORMATION:

    Name:         Stingray
    Manufacturer: Daisy/Brass Eagle
    Manufacturer's Address: BRASS EAGLE
                            P.O. BOX 220
                            RODGERS, ARKANSAS 72757
    Manufacturer's Phone# : (800) 643-3458
    Calibre:      .68
    Action:       Semi-Automatic, Blowback open-bolt design
    Price:        NEW $85-$100 USED $50+
    Materials used: Aluminum, Steel, and some Black-Colored, Alien 
                    Engineered, plastic-like substance (explained later)

1.4 PROS & CONS

PROS:

Low Price
Easy Takedown
Simple Design (easy to troubleshoot & modify)
Good Gas Efficiency
Extremely light and well-balanced (easy one handed operation)
Finish DOES NOT rust, nick or dent.
LOW Ball-Breakage
Cheap replacement parts
Very happy on a diet of liquid or gas
Not very picky on brands of paint

CONS:

LONG, CREAKY Trigger pull (*)
Relatively Slow rate of fire (*)
Comes with a dinky little paint hopper (*)
CO2 tank is in a bad position, makes it hard to use sights (*)
Relatively loud when fired
(*) = easily remedied with some simple mods

1.5 HOW IT WORKS:
Here's a general run-down of how the 'Ray functions: The CO2 is sent through the Donkey, through the Transfer Tube to the Valve Body where it waits to be released. The Cocking Screw is pulled back and the Sear catches on the Hammer. The Hammer is pushed forward a bit by the pressure of the Hammer Spring which allows the Trigger to manipulate the Sear.

When the Trigger is pulled, the Sear is disengaged from the Hammer and the Hammer slides forward to push in the Valve Stem. While the Hammer is sliding forward, it also slides the Bolt and a paintball forward into the barrel. When the Hammer pushes in the Valve Stem CO2 is blasted out the front to fire the paintball and blasted out the back to cycle the action. The Hammer is blown back, smashes against the Hammer Bumper and catches on the sear, ready to fire again.

1.6 SID'S NOT-SO-HUMBLE OPINION:
I've had a Stingray for a while now, I've put a few mods on it and made most myself. I still go to the field for Open Play and listen to the Auto-Maggots and 'Cocker-Suckers blather about how many gajillions of dollars they sunk into their markers. I still get "The Look" (a very common look of puzzlement and condescension), and these mutants chuckle at having a 'Ray at their field. OF COURSE the 'Ray is inferior, it only rings in at around $90.00. "There is just NO WAY that a marker which costs so little can defeat me and my Joey-Driscoll-Signature-Series-Super-Bloat-Blaster-XV9600!(tm)", they say. Oddly after the game, many of these people -now wearing a plethora of non-toxic flavors, give "The Other Look" (fear and disbelief).

1.7 MORAL OF THE STORY:
Judging a player by the price tag of his marker will only earn you a lot of time in the Deadzone.

2.0 GENERAL DISASSEMBLY/CLEANING/REASSEMBLY

WARNING

I am not responsible for anything you screw up. If you don't think something sounds right e-mail me, and I'll clarify. All of the methods presented have already been tried out and work well unless otherwise noted. Whatever you do you do at you own risk. So there.

2.1 STEP ONE -TAKE IT OUT TO PLAY:
Congrats! You are the proud owner of a Brass Eagle/Daisy Stingray Semi-Auto .68cal. Paintball marker. "What do I do with it now?" you ask. The Stingray is ready to go out of the box so.... Go out and play, man! And I mean *PLAY*, not shoot a target - You know, running though the woods with those .68cal. critters hot on your heels. This will give you an idea of what you need to keep and what to change. Note the lightness, how well it points, and how easy it is to maneuver with it. Now go back home.

2.2 STEP TWO -TOOLS YOU NEED:

It's time to assemble your small minion of tools. This is a complete list -you can improvise for some of the tools. You need:

4mm Hex Key (incredibly useful)

Hammer (aka force-it wrench)

Automagic Transmission Fluid for cars (I use Dextron III - Mercon)

Dremel Moto-Tool (I could write tomes about it, trust me you NEED one!)

Flat-head Screwdriver

Old Toothbrush (A friend's or sibling's may also be substituted)

Emory Cloth (Coarse, Medium and Fine for metals)

No. 7 Rubbing Compound or the similar

Cheap Safety Goggles (NOT your $60.00+ dollar paintball goggles, these are for while you are polishing metal, not playing paintball)

Flexi Hone Finishing Brush or a wooden dowel

Plasti-Zap (Super Glue works well also)

2 Ton Epoxy

Electric Drill and bit set

LockTite Threadlock (The Blue Flavor)

2.3 STEP THREE -GENERAL DISASSEMBLY/CLEANING/REASSEMBLY:

2.3.1 Make sure you don't have any paintballs or CO2 in the 'Ray (Duh!) or you'll have BIG problems.

2.3.2 There are two pins at the back end of the Barrel pull them out and remove the Barrel and Barrel Shroud. NOTE: If you encounter difficulty removing the pins push them out a bit with your trusty 4mm hex key. Then, give the hex key a whack with Mr. Hammer -viola it's out, man.

2.3.3 Pop the two pins which hold the bottom part (Grip Assembly) to the top part (Receiver) and separate the two parts.

2.3.4 Put the Grip assembly somewhere safe and remove the Cocking Screw

2.3.5 Locate the Top Frame Pin near the Velocity Adjustment Screw on the Receiver and remove it.

2.3.6 Slide the guts (Valve and Tube Assembly) out of the rear of the Receiver. If it appears to be stuck, use the 4mm Hex key to tighten the Velocity Adjustment Screw and try it again.

2.3.7 Put the Receiver somewhere safe and push out the two Donkey Pins located at the rear of the Valve&Tube Assembly (The Hex key/Hammer trick works great for this).

2.3.8 Pull the Donkey (What a very descriptive name -NOT!) out of the back of the Hammer Tube, the Transfer Tube should come with it. If it doesn't remove that also.

2.3.9 Lift the arm of the Bolt Transfer Link Assembly out of the groove in the Hammer and slide it off of the Bolt Guide.

2.3.10 Remove the small, metal, roll pin (Valve Pin) from the lower front of the Valve & Tube Assembly.

2.3.11 Slide the Valve Assembly out of the front of the Hammer Tube and clean it (See .4).

2.3.12 Slide the Hammer, the Hammer Spring, Hammer Bumper, and Hammer Bumper Spring Guide out of the Hammer Tube.

2.3.13 Stare at the Big Pile O' Parts and smile triumphantly. Proceed to wipe off any dirty, greasy parts with the shop rag. All parts can be placed under running water to be easily cleaned.

2.3.14 Use a copious amount of AFT Fluid on all the O'rings, the Hammer, the Bolt Guide, and the inside of the Hammer Tube.

2.3.15 Follow steps in reverse order for reassemble except do not replace barrel.

2.3.16 Hold marker with the business end down and fill the donkey with ATF Fluid. Push the Cocking Screw FORWARD and some ATF Fluid will seep in. Install CO2 (NO PAINTBALLS) and fire 20-30 times.

2.4 VALVE DISASSEMBLY/CLEANING/REASSEMBLE:

2.4.2 Remove the Valve Seal, Valve Stem, Valve Spring (they should fall out), Valve O'ring, and Valve Washer (these may require some coaxing)

2.4.3 Remove the Velocity Adjustment Screw and Velocity Spring with the 4mm Hex key

2.4.4 Remove all the grease and crap from the Valve Body with the shop rag, and wipe off all the other parts.

2.4.5 Use a copious amount of ATF Fluid when reassembling. Make sure you seat Valve O'ring well and the Valve Washer has the bevel facing down. If you neglect to do any of this it *WILL* leak. Leftover parts is NOT a good thing. Follow the steps in reverse order to reassemble.

2.4.6 Hold the Valve Assembly upside-down and pour some ATF Fluid into the Transfer Tube hole and down the side the Valve Stem. Now push the Valve Stem in several times. This will work more ATF Fluid into the Valve Assembly, assuring a good seal.

3.0 IMPROVEMENTS AND MODS (STUFF YOU CAN'T LIVE WITHOUT)

3.1 IMPROVE RANGE AND VELOCITY VALVE MOD:

3.1.2 Place some Fine Grit Emory Cloth on a hard, flat surface and sand down the outside face of the Valve Seal Retainer -This will allow the Hammer to push the Valve Stem farther. DO NOT sand it down so far that you don't have anything left for the screwdriver to catch on (Duh!).

3.1.3 Take the Valve Stem and polish it with the Dremel Moto-tool's felt polishing tool (can be done by hand, but is Very tedious) and the No. 7 Rubbing Compound (or similar). The Valve pin should appear chromed, and very, VERY smooth. This will allow the pin to move with less force.

3.1.4 Polish the Bolt Guide tube to a chrome-like finish. This will allow the Bolt to glide smoothly and efficiently.

3.1.5 Remove the Velocity Adjustment Screw and place a small piece of Teflon Tape on the threads (this prevents ANY escape of CO2).

3.1.6 Enlarge the Velocity Adjustment Screw hole in the Receiver with an Electric Drill and the X-Acto Knife. Be sure to remove the plastic shavings from the inside of the Receiver. This will allow you to unscrew the Velocity Adjustment Screw farther.

3.1.7 Reassemble with lots of ATF Fluid (Make sure every last trace of the Rubbing Compound is GONE or there will be problems).

3.2 IMPROVE RANGE AND VELOCITY HAMMER TUBE MOD

3.2.1 Remove all pieces from Hammer tube and polish the inside of the Hammer tube with Flexi-Hone Finishing Brush. The Brush can be substituted with a 5/16" wooden dowel with a shop rag taped to the end and some No. 7 Rubbing Compound (or Similar) used as a polishing agent.

3.2.2 Remove the O'Ring from the Hammer and use the Dremel Moto-Tool's Felt Polishing Tool (Hand polishing is possible, but tedious) and some No 7. Rubbing Compound (or similar) to polish the Hammer to a chrome-like finish. This will allow the Hammer to glide inside the polished Hammer Tube, greatly increasing the efficiency.

3.2.3 Placing washers between the Hammer Bumper and the Hammer Spring Guide will put more pressure on the Hammer Spring and will increase velocity. Be careful with this though, as too much pressure will keep your Stingray from being able to re-cock itself.

3.2.4 Reassemble with lots of ATF Fluid thnly coating each part(Make sure every last trace of the Rubbing Compound is GONE or there will be problems).

3.3 IMPROVE ACCURACY BARREL MOD

3.3.2 Polish the inside of the Barrel with the Flexi-Hone Finishing Brush The Brush can be substituted with a 5/16" wooden dowel with a Shop Rag taped to the end and some No. 7 Rubbing Compound (or Similar) used as a polishing agent. This will increase accuracy by smoothing the Barrel. If No.7 Rubbing Compund is not available, diatom based toothpaste (like Crest or Colgate) will actually work here, plus it will leave your barrel smelling minty fresh.

3.3.3 Use the Hack Saw to make two cuts on the Barrel Shroud and remove about 1 1/2" from the middle of the Barrel Shroud.

3.3.4 Sand out or drill the front opening of the Barrel Shroud so the Barrel may pass through.

3.3.5 Glue the two pieces of the barrel shroud back together with the Plasti-Zap to hold them together until you get it aligned. Then use the 2 Ton Epoxy.

3.3.6 When you reassemble the 'Ray, a good chunk of the Barrel should stick out past the Barrel Shroud. You can polish the tip to a chrome finish for a custom look. The piece of plastic which once existed in front of the barrel acted like an "Anti-Muzzle Break". You should now see a marked improvement in accuracy. The shortened barrel shroud will also allow you to attatch aftermarket muzzle brakes, or to drill in integral muzzle brake into the end of the barrel (replacement barrels are very inexpensive, so it doesn't hurt to experiment).

3.4 IMPROVED TRIGGER PULL AND FIRING RATE MOD

3.4.1 Remove the Grip Assembly from the Receiver.

3.4.2 Remove the Sear Pivot Pin (the Hex key/Hammer trick should work).

3.4.3 Remove the Sear. Be careful, it's also attached to the Sear Spring.

3.4.4 Sand the sides of the sear with Fine Grit Emory Cloth and polish with the No. 7 Rubbing Compound. Also polish the inside of the oval shaped hole in the Sear (A Dremel Moto-Tool helps)

3.4.5 INSTALL THE SET SCREW: Drill a 3/8" hole in the Bottom Rear of the Trigger Guard to allow access for a Drill and Screwdriver.

3.4.6 Drill a 1/8" hole in the Grip Frame and through the Sear Plate. Use the hole you drilled in the Trigger Guard for easy access. Drill the hole near the grip.

      ________________________________
      | o      GRIP ASSEMBLY    o  __|
       \_____________________      \
                   \    | | ^|      \
                     \__|/__||       \
                            | \       \
                            |   \______\
                            |
                        DRILL HERE!

NOTE: Older Stingrays have a Sear plate made of Aluminum -cake to drill through. Newer models use some sort of Titanium/Kryptonite/Alien- Engineered metal. Be prepared to use excessive force!!! The newest models make a lame attempt at fixing the trigger pull by putting a "bump" in the Sear Plate -you still need to drill and install the set screw.

3.4.7 Screw a 5/32"dia. 1/4"(or thereabouts) machine screw into the hole. The screw will tap itself unless it's one of the newer, harder sear plates -then you'll have to widen the hole a bit.

3.4.8 Install the Sear and Sear Pivot Pin and reassemble the 'Ray.

3.4.9 Try to cock the 'Ray. If it won't catch, unscrew the set screw until it will. There will be a lot of play in the trigger -we'll take care of that in a few, just pull the trigger back until you feel resistance. When you feel resistance, squeeze until it fires. Adjusting the screw will shorten\lengthen this distance -you can achieve a hair-trigger in this manner.

3.4.10 ADJUSTING THE PLAY: With the Grip Assembly removed from the Receiver push the Sear forward. Pull the Trigger back until it makes contact with the Sear. Note the trigger position.

3.4.11 We're going to put a screw through the Grip assembly, over the arm on the front of the trigger. This will limit the distance the trigger can move forward, giving a short,crisp trigger pull.

3.4.12 Drill a 5/16" hole on either side of the grip assembly for the play screw. These holes should allow for the screw to hold the tigger arm down a bit. A good guideline is to drill out the "E" in "PUSH SAFE" on one side and the "P" in "PUSH FIRE" on the other.

3.4.13 Test fit the screw and sand or build up the trigger arm until the amount of play is to your liking.

3.4.14 Put an appropriate nut on your bolt (a lockwasher is also a good idea) and tighten. Reassemble the marker and test fire. Make minor adjustments until satisfied.

4.0 AFTERMARKET PARTS

4.1 SID'S NOT-SO-HUMBLE OPINION II:
After you have completed the simple do-it-yourself mods outlined in Part 3 you have yourself quite a formidable marker:

It will fire more rounds per second than a VM-68
It is quieter than the VM-68
It's weight is second only to the Tippman Pro-Lite and some Stock Markers
You can easily squeeze out range and velocity far beyond an out-of-the box Automag
The trigger is a whole lot better than an out-of-the box Auto-Cocker
It's as durable and reliable as the Tippman Pro-Lite
Accuracy is outstanding
It eats liquid or gas -it doesn't care
You've probably spent less than $100

Now you should have a few bucks for some aftermarket parts. They will improve your marker even more.

4.2 A DECENT PAINT HOPPER:
The Paint Hopper which comes with the 'Ray will be the first thing you want to replace (Mark my words). This dinky little hopper holds about 70 balls and has a SCREW ON CAP which is OPAQUE BLACK. The mouth opening is large enough to put one ball in at a time -making bulk loaders useless. My Opinion: Splurge the $9.00 to $15.00 bucks to get a 200rd. hopper it is *really* worth it. I'm rather fond of The VL-200 (not VL-2000 - the action of the marker agitates the hopper quite well and makes it unnecessary).

4.3 VENTURI BOLT:
The bolt which comes with your Stingray is abysmal compared to a good aftermarket bolt. The Ventuti Bolt is designed to push the paintball with many streams of air producing equal pressure on the back of the paintball vs. one centered blast. A Venturi Bolt will make a noticeable increase in range and accuracy. It will even reduce ball breakage. Venturi bolts fo the 'Ray will range between $15.00 to $25.00 and are well worth it.
Note: While Bill thinks they certainly can't hurt he questions the claim that venturi bolts will increase accuracy.

4.4 BOTTOM-LINE KIT:
The CO2 tank tends to get in way of aiming in it's stock position. With a bottom-line kit you can aim more comfortably and the tank will make a much better shoulder stock. Many bottom-line can be mounted backwards so the tank will face forwards and will be parallel to the barrel. This makes the marker a bit front-heavy but awesome for flag-running -especially in heavy brush.
Look for bottom-line kits for $40.00 - $60.00

4.5 AFTERMARKET BARRELS:
Many different brands. I've had experience with the Smart Parts Stingray barrel -the pin grooves were too deep and I ruined a bolt. I am ordering a Bud Orr Stingray barrel and hoping for better results.
My Opinion: Experiment with Stock Barrels -Cut them, port them, put a suppressor on them, put a muzzle break on them. Heck, they cost $3.50 a piece, as does the Barrel Shroud. Experiment! Besides, with the shroud cut back, the stock barrel is very accurate.

4.6 SIGHTS AND SCOPES:
The Stingray has an integral dovetail base and almost any paintball marker, BB gun, or .22 scope will fit nicely. Prices and types vary widely.

4.7 FIELD STRIP PINS:
Replaces the pins which hold the 'Ray together. Includes a ring at one end for EASY removal. Much better than those hard to remove stock pins, but not a really necessary mod.
These ring in at $8.00 - $11.00

4.8 OTHERS:
There are a few others wich may reap some benefit, but I've covered most of the major ones. There is also a Commando kit which looks cool, but seems kind'a pricey ($85.00). I haven't used the Commando kit, but if someone has please send some info and we'll include it. Also, if re-working the trigger seems like a big job to tackle yourself, trigger assemblies with sear set-screws already installed are available from I&I Sports Supply.

5.0 MISCELLANEOUS TIPS & INFO:

5.1 ADDING A FORE-GRIP:
I've added a home-brew foregrip to my 'Ray, it works very well and looks good. Try it out:

5.1.2 Bevel the bottom end of the PVC pipe to take off the edges.

5.1.3 Wrap a piece of sandpaper around a 1 1/2" dowel and sand a "saddle" into the top of the pipe.

5.1.4 Test fit the fore-grip right behind the barrel pins -sand as necessary

                                          _____  -Ball feed
                      ___________________|     |_______
_____________________|      o         | ||     || | | | 
                     |                | | | | | | | | |
  BARREL             |                | | | | | | | | | 
_____________________|          ____  | | | | | | | | | 
                     |______o_/      \|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|
                          /   |      |   |____|
               Barrel pins    |      |
                              |      |   - Fore-grip
                              |      |

5.1.5 Spray paint flat black and allow to dry.

5.1.6 Use the Plasti-Zap (Super Glue) to hold the grip in place whule you apply the 2 Ton Epoxy

5.1.7 Allow the Epoxy to dry and 'Viola - Elliot Ness-like fore-grip

5.2 TACTICAL SLING:< A ver nice addition to any Stingray. Makes it much easier to carry, yet doesn't interfere with moving or firing. The sling itself can be made of any material of your liking. the clip mounts are best mounted:

                                   
          A hole can be drilled here with no interference
                                       | 
                                       V  _____   -Ball feed
                      ___________________|     |_______
_____________________|      o         |X||     || | | | 
                     |                | | | | | | | | | 
  BARREL             |                | | | | | | | | | 
_____________________|                | | | | | | | | | 
                     |______o_________|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|                   
                          /             |____|
                  Barrel Pins                 
                    _
             ______| | 
  __________/___X____|
                 \
         And here on the rear sight

Key rings work well to attach the sling to the marker. You may also find some sort of clip at a local hardware store.

5.3 CAMO STINGRAY:
The Odd, Black, Alien Engineered Plastic takes to spray paint extremely well. And at $12.50 to replace ALL of the Matte-black Plastic-like material, if you REALLY screw up it isn't much to replace it all. Using a coarse sandpaper to "rough up" the plastic helps the paint to adhere to it, and finishing off with a few coats of clear Urathane will provide a tough finish that resists chipping. Grey primer in a Camo pattern works well, as does green. I've also seen 'Rays painted with the Formby's New Marble and Stone Spray paint. It's an easy way to customize your marker.

5.4 ALIEN ENGINEERED PLASTIC:
A final word on the strange Alien Engineered Plastic they use for the Stingray. I've heard 'Cocker Suckers and Automaggots blather about how they think a Stingray would break or wear out easily. Wrong again! It's a hard plastic, yet it doesnt crack. When Brass Eagle first unveiled the Stingray, Randy Kamiya (then editor of Action Pursuit Games, now editor of Paintball Industry) put one through a torture test of running it over with a car, and shooting the reciver with a .22 handgun. It still worked! It doesn't cut like most plastics, it's extremely rigid, and it doesn't scratch easily. I have NEVER seen any of the plastic parts break. It's really incredible. It appears to be of the same family as the plastic on the Splatmaster, but a little better. Wierd stuff, but good.

6.0 CLOSINGS, ACKNOWLEGEMENTS

I hope this FAQ has helped you, in exchange for the information presented here (and you thought you got it for free) I request one of three things while you are on the field:

1. Mark a known "Newbie Hunter" with your Stingray
2. Mark one of those Automag biggots (Automaggots) or one of those poor suckers who feels the need to pour money into after-market parts for their Auto-Cockers ('Cocker-Suckers)
3. Use a Stingray in a Tourney

There is some education to be passed out here, and non-toxic colors open the doors of communication. :-) When you complete one of these tasks, E-mail me and tell me about your adventure and I'll list you amoung the paintball deities. Thanx.

I could not have written this myself, Bill Mills has been an incredible help. His knowlege of paintball is only matched by how personable his disposition is. If you have any questions feel free to E-mail him also.

Lastly, to all my fellow Outlaw and Wild Cat paintballers out there - wear your goggles and chrono those markers.

Have fun,

Sid
TIP# 1731, DOD# 1440
Brian "Sid" Fedorko

DISCLAIMER:

All opinions expressed are mine!!! Not my employer's, friend's, or family's. They are mine. MINE, MINE, MINE. Unless you want to press charges -then they're Bill's. ;-)
Note: Should you decide to press charges, Bill says he dissavows any knowledge of this, and this tape will self destruct in 10 seconds.

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