|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Re: Spyde Compact 2000
In Reply to: Spyde Compact 2000 posted by Alebc on May 04, 2003 at 21:23:55:
|
|
Posted by: Dale "Head_Hunters" DuPont on May 05, 2003 at 10:34:09
|
Can anyone tell me, in laymans terms, how to find out what's wrong and fix it? If it stops when the gun is cocked, it is the hammer resting on the valve with the hammer spring just pushing it enough to open it slightly to hiss. If it still leaks with the marker cocked, the valve seal is worn our not aligned properly due to a manufacturer defect in the valve seals. They had a run of them for about a year... Call Kingman and tell the tech support you need a new valve seal. They just might send you one for free.... Replacing the valve seal will fix it along with a little 3 in 1 oil to lube it. It is the white nylon disk in the $10 rebuild kit. : Alrighty, I just opened it up to take a look at what's inside. I took a look at the black piece below the bolt (striker?) to see that it has a broken O ring. I replaced it with one I had downstairs. There is a washer (striker buffer?) that goes behind the black piece that I have trouble getting back in. Do I have to remove the grip to get it back in? I piece it together and the washer was not pushed all the way forward, and it wouldn't cock all the way. Help! Well, this is real familiar too. The rear grip screw is too long and preventing that bumper ring from being in the right position. It may be a replacement screw that was lost. Won't take a standard screw length. The next size length shorter is too short and will strip out part of the threads in the body. Everything is oddball size with Kingman. All you have to do is back off that rear grip screw partially to get it in and out. The fix is a factory replacement screw or field strip kit. OR you can put enough washers under the head of the screw so the end of the bolt is flush with the inside of the receiver threads. This tends to come loose with a little use and vibration. So you tend to tighten the screw even more and wind up stripping out the threads... OR you can grind off the screw to proper length. In addition, the extra long screw in the rear grip will bind the hammer spring making it very difficult to adjust your velocity properly without backing off the rear grip screw.. The reason it won't cock is the rear grip screw is preventing that bumper from being back against the body plug. The spring just can't compress enough for it to engage the sear and stay cocked. By the time you do all that, you will know just about everything to take a spyder apart and put it back together again. Except removing the valve body. The only trick there is NOT to put the valve body in backwards. Mark one end with a permanent marker when you remove it... It has a locating screw that must be removed that is located under the grip which has to be removed. You can VERY EASILY ding up the face of the valve seal when pushing it out. Use wood or plastic tools to push it out. A plastic writing pen that has a tapered tip goes IN the hole works very well. Ditto a small wooden dowel rod from the hardware store. There ya go.... |
|
Follow Ups:
|
| Copyright © 1992-2019
Corinthian Media Services. WARPIG's webmasters can be reached through our feedback form. All articles and images are copyrighted and may not be redistributed without the written permission of their original creators and Corinthian Media Services. The WARPIG paintball page is a collection of information and pointers to sources from around the internet and other locations. As such, Corinthian Media Services makes no claims to the trustworthiness or reliability of said information. The information contained in, and referenced by WARPIG, should not be used as a substitute for safety information from trained professionals in the paintball industry. |