Posted by: Dale "Head_Hunters" DuPont on September 28, 2003 at 13:48:59

My primary is an autococker. Bought it with woods play in mind. Inherently VERY quiet and accurate. My backup is a 12 year old Spyder Classic that couldn't be sold on E bay for $30. My boy went the other way. He bought a USED upgraded spyder with everything on it except LP. (expansion chamber) When the guy handed him the box, he had all the stock spare parts left over from the 'upgrades' in it. We spent $20 and MADE another spyder out of the spare parts.... Now his brothers spyder. But you are on the right Track Nitro and a Revy from the start. With Nitrogen, you DO NOT NEED A SPYDER with their "CO2 Mini Expansion Chamber" on it. So don't pay for stuff you don't need. Loose the mini expansion chamber AND their Worthless Regulator set ups like on the Shutter. To review Kingman Models, Go to: http://www.kingmanusa.com/spyder/index.html and click on semi markers. Then forget about the back cocking bolts and all that other stuff that makes them look like an autococker and costs more but has absolutely no effect on performance... Just a gimmick to get you to part with money... The NEXT decision is whether or not to buy the stock bottom line and drop forward or buy one from the aftermarket suppliers. The aftermarket suppliers tend to make a generic drop forward. Get the one with 4 sets of HOLES. Two are for a spyder grip, the other two for every other marker made.... DO NOT buy the drop forward that has 2 SLOTS instead of 4 holes. The bottomline will be forever loose and wobbling. You will try to tighten the screws and wind up breaking your grip..... Next spyder hoses like the drop forward bolt pattern is unique to spyders. You may need a thread adaptor if you decide to go to LP at some point in the future. About $8. An aftermarket bottomline should have a hose thread that is standard 1/8 NPT thread. Just make sure it FITs you spyder Thread. An aftermarket bottom line and hose kit is about $25. So all you need is a COMPACT Delux or a Compact Java 2+1 depending on your bottom line choice. Send me an E mail and I will tell you how to get a LP regulator for about $30 that will screw into that vertical ASA and take a standard hose fitting. You can set it about 600 psi for a stock pressure or spend $50 on a LP valve and Mad man spring set and go to sub 300 psi operating pressures. That will quiet you marker considerably, reduce a lot of internal banging and bashing and increase your marker life, you will have the benefits of LP including more accuracy and the ability to extend your break range about 15 yards by using thin shelled paint that won't stay in one piece in a stock spyder barrel operating at 600-900 psi. Then an aftermarket barrel of your choice. Nice but NOT required. I use a stock barrel but I use very round, premium paint that runs $65-80 a case. A $200 Freak barrel still can't make a paintball that isn't round fly straight the milisecond it leave the barrel tip. Think about that for a second. It is absolutely true. Most people buy a barrel to improve accuracy and THEN discover the merits of buying premium paint. I say buy the paint and THEN borrow a barrel and see if it makes the GOOD paint shoot that much better to justify the expense. Ditto, borrow a barrel and see it that makes your Cheap field paint shoot ANY BETTER to justify the expense. When the sale guy says, the barrel will improve your accuracy, ask if you can bring it back if you can't SEE the difference. He will say "No.... It will be used... We can't do that." All you need to know about what to expect out of an aftermarket barrel. Paint Quality is the key to accuracy.

Follow Ups: Post a Followup Show your name as: DefaultRealnameBothNickname E-Mail address (eg: joeschmoe@aol.com): Show your e-mail address? DefaultYesNo Your Password: Don't have a password? CLICK HERE - Forgot your password? CLICK HERE Subject: Subject:Message: : My primary is an autococker. Bought it with woods play in mind. Inherently VERY quiet and accurate. My backup is a 12 year old Spyder Classic that couldn't be sold on E bay for $30. : My boy went the other way. He bought a USED upgraded spyder with everything on it except LP. (expansion chamber) When the guy handed him the box, he had all the stock spare parts left over from the 'upgrades' in it. : We spent $20 and MADE another spyder out of the spare parts.... Now his brothers spyder. : But you are on the right Track Nitro and a Revy from the start. With Nitrogen, you DO NOT NEED A SPYDER with their "CO2 Mini Expansion Chamber" on it. So don't pay for stuff you don't need. Loose the mini expansion chamber AND their Worthless Regulator set ups like on the Shutter. : To review Kingman Models, Go to: : http://www.kingmanusa.com/spyder/index.html : and click on semi markers. : Then forget about the back cocking bolts and all that other stuff that makes them look like an autococker and costs more but has absolutely no effect on performance... Just a gimmick to get you to part with money... : The NEXT decision is whether or not to buy the stock bottom line and drop forward or buy one from the aftermarket suppliers. The aftermarket suppliers tend to make a generic drop forward. Get the one with 4 sets of HOLES. Two are for a spyder grip, the other two for every other marker made.... DO NOT buy the drop forward that has 2 SLOTS instead of 4 holes. The bottomline will be forever loose and wobbling. You will try to tighten the screws and wind up breaking your grip..... : Next spyder hoses like the drop forward bolt pattern is unique to spyders. You may need a thread adaptor if you decide to go to LP at some point in the future. About $8. An aftermarket bottomline should have a hose thread that is standard 1/8 NPT thread. Just make sure it FITs you spyder Thread. : An aftermarket bottom line and hose kit is about $25. : So all you need is a COMPACT Delux or a Compact Java 2+1 depending on your bottom line choice. : Send me an E mail and I will tell you how to get a LP regulator for about $30 that will screw into that vertical ASA and take a standard hose fitting. You can set it about 600 psi for a stock pressure or spend $50 on a LP valve and Mad man spring set and go to sub 300 psi operating pressures. That will quiet you marker considerably, reduce a lot of internal banging and bashing and increase your marker life, you will have the benefits of LP including more accuracy and the ability to extend your break range about 15 yards by using thin shelled paint that won't stay in one piece in a stock spyder barrel operating at 600-900 psi. : Then an aftermarket barrel of your choice. Nice but NOT required. I use a stock barrel but I use very round, premium paint that runs $65-80 a case. A $200 Freak barrel still can't make a paintball that isn't round fly straight the milisecond it leave the barrel tip. Think about that for a second. It is absolutely true. : Most people buy a barrel to improve accuracy and THEN discover the merits of buying premium paint. : I say buy the paint and THEN borrow a barrel and see if it makes the GOOD paint shoot that much better to justify the expense. : Ditto, borrow a barrel and see it that makes your Cheap field paint shoot ANY BETTER to justify the expense. : When the sale guy says, the barrel will improve your accuracy, ask if you can bring it back if you can't SEE the difference. : He will say "No.... It will be used... We can't do that." : All you need to know about what to expect out of an aftermarket barrel. Paint Quality is the key to accuracy. [ Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ WARPIG Tech Talk - Spyder ]