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WARPIG Tech Talk - Autococker / Minicocker

Here you go...(long)...

In Reply to: Pressure settings? posted by Devon on February 19, 2003 at 11:17:54:


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Posted by:
BodyByHostess

on February 20, 2003 at 10:35:28

Let's start with the pneumatics and work our way out.

Nice choice on the front end :) As far as installation goes, attach the 3-way shaft to the coupler (make sure the indentation lines up with the set screw). Then, the orings on the 3-way shaft should be lubricated with vaseline and the knob on the FGP reg should be turned out (lowers or turns pneumatic pressure off). The 3-way shaft will slide right into the bomb. After it's installed, gas up the gun to check for leaks. Then start turning the FGP knob in slowly to check if the timing is good. I would turn the pressure on the reg down (knob out) any time you're adjusting the 3-way.

Does the gun this will be going on have a traditional slider type trigger or a hinge? The hoses on the Shocktech front end come set up for a traditional slider. If you'll be using a hinge (swing) trigger the front and rear hoses on the 3-way need to be reversed.

With a traditional cocker 3-way and trigger the front barb on the 3-way connects to the rear barb on the ram, and the rear barb on the 3-way goes to the front of the ram. Because of the bomb's design these are switched (to the current set up as set in the factory). A swing or hinge trigger works opposite of a slider so that also needs the hoses reversed. So, with a bomb and a hinge you wind up back to the traditional setup (front to back & back to front)

When the gun is timed and you're ready to set the pneumatic pressure, simply start with the knob turned out, and increase the pressure (turn the knob in) slowly untill the gun reliably cocks. You can turn it up a slight bit more to be sure, but you want the gun to cock at the lowest pressure your setup allows.

Moving to the inline reg. This is where you sweetspot. You're looking for the optimum operating pressure for the current combination of valve, hammer, and springs. First, install your Rat 3:16 valve. I have one myself and am very happy with the valve spring that was packaged with the valve. You can start their main spring
as well (the Rat 3:16 comes with both).

To sweetspot, set your velocity adjuster somewhere in the middle of it's range and turn down the pressure (operating pressure) on the inline reg. As you increase the operating pressure you should see the gun's velocity increase to a point and then begin to decrease. Set your inline at the pressure that gives you the highest velocity. That's the point where the gun is the most efficient. If the velocity is close to field limits, simply use the velocity adjuster to fine tune it. If the velocity at the sweetspot is too high or too low you'll need to change one or both springs and begin the process again. To increase velocity you need to use either a lighter valve spring, a heavier hammer spring, or both. To decrease velocity, use a heavier valve spring, a lighter hammer spring, or both. I would always opt for trying a lighter spring first (valve to increase velocity, hammer to decrease). My guess is that you'll wind up with an operating pressure of somewhere around 300-350. (I like to have a mini reg installed in the front block to monitor operating pressure. It replaces the plug in the bottom.)

Finally, the tank. If you're going with a fixed output tank avoid the low pressure ones (400-450psi). Go with the standard 800-850psi. If you've got an adjustable, I'd set it at 750-800. There's no reason to have your tank adjusted to the lowest possible pressure, your inline reg will work just as well with the tank set at 800 as it will with the tank set at 600. Some regs will actually perform better at the higher tank pressure.

Hope this helps.

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