Posted by: Razorpb on April 22, 2003 at 18:07:52

When I ran my cocker mechanical I had the fire point set at 50%, immediately after the halfway point the 3-way should start hissing then stop (hissing) at the rear most point (100%) with the block fully back. In the fully forward and fully back position of the trigger pull there should not be any leaking (hissing) occuring. Hope it helps. Razor : Yes print and read the available material about how to time an autococker. Not too much about trouble shooting specific scenerios of malfunction. Kind of like a used car. You have to learn the 'personality' of those little quirks. : The "burping scenerio". Very familiar to all of us... : When the bolt closes, the sear lug is not engaging the sear properly. It literally bounces over the sear. The hammer spring is pushing the hammer forward as the back block releases the cocking rod. The hammer bumps the valve stem and you release some air and it "Burps". : Four major causes: : 1. Sear lug not deep enough. But make sure your firing point stays in the front 20% of your trigger pull length or you just might create a blowback problem. If it does, then #4 below is likely the culprit. : 2. The cock rod length is backing out or too short. Ungassed, cock the marker using the back block. Look at the position of the cocking rod and make sure you can pull the back blockand cocking rod 1/16-3/32" farther back from the sear engaged position. : 3. The sear return spring is too light. Stock spring should be fine. Beware aftermarket lighter sear springs can cause this problem. : 4. 3 Way is out of time. The sear slides on a ramp on the trigger plate. As the trigger plate goes forward, the sear returns to the full upright position to engage the sear fully. If the 3 way closes the bolt and releases the hammer cocking rod BEFORE the sear is in the full up position, it can cause the sear lug to miss, inconsistently engage or just bump over the sear lug. All causing "Burps" : A quick way to check if this is suspect is you gas up the marker with no paint. Pull and HOLD the trigger. AS SLOWLY as possible, let the trigger plate creep forward until the 3 way closes. Observe if the hammer is cocked indicating the sear was engages with the sear lug. : If it skips over and burps, The 3 way timing is suspect. The fix is to LENGTHEN the 3 way timing rod so the trigger plate can move farther forward (and the sear raise farther up) before the 3 way closes the bolt. : See you have to be able to visualize and understand HOW it works and HOW is doesn't work to be able to really understand all those instructions. : Always finnish 'Tuning' with the toilet paper test; The pull, hold, and slow release test; Check the bolt clears the feed chute; and The pull it as fast as you can go rapid, dry fire test. Then you can go play.....

Follow Ups: Post a Followup Show your name as: DefaultRealnameBothNickname E-Mail address (eg: joeschmoe@aol.com): Show your e-mail address? DefaultYesNo Your Password: Don't have a password? CLICK HERE - Forgot your password? CLICK HERE Subject: Subject:Message: : When I ran my cocker mechanical I had the fire point set at 50%, immediately after the halfway point the 3-way should start hissing then stop (hissing) at the rear most point (100%) with the block fully back. In the fully forward and fully back position of the trigger pull there should not be any leaking (hissing) occuring. Hope it helps. : Razor : : : Yes print and read the available material about how to time an autococker. Not too much about trouble shooting specific scenerios of malfunction. Kind of like a used car. You have to learn the 'personality' of those little quirks. : : The "burping scenerio". Very familiar to all of us... : : When the bolt closes, the sear lug is not engaging the sear properly. It literally bounces over the sear. The hammer spring is pushing the hammer forward as the back block releases the cocking rod. The hammer bumps the valve stem and you release some air and it "Burps". : : Four major causes: : : 1. Sear lug not deep enough. But make sure your firing point stays in the front 20% of your trigger pull length or you just might create a blowback problem. If it does, then #4 below is likely the culprit. : : 2. The cock rod length is backing out or too short. Ungassed, cock the marker using the back block. Look at the position of the cocking rod and make sure you can pull the back blockand cocking rod 1/16-3/32" farther back from the sear engaged position. : : 3. The sear return spring is too light. Stock spring should be fine. Beware aftermarket lighter sear springs can cause this problem. : : 4. 3 Way is out of time. The sear slides on a ramp on the trigger plate. As the trigger plate goes forward, the sear returns to the full upright position to engage the sear fully. If the 3 way closes the bolt and releases the hammer cocking rod BEFORE the sear is in the full up position, it can cause the sear lug to miss, inconsistently engage or just bump over the sear lug. All causing "Burps" : : A quick way to check if this is suspect is you gas up the marker with no paint. Pull and HOLD the trigger. AS SLOWLY as possible, let the trigger plate creep forward until the 3 way closes. Observe if the hammer is cocked indicating the sear was engages with the sear lug. : : If it skips over and burps, The 3 way timing is suspect. The fix is to LENGTHEN the 3 way timing rod so the trigger plate can move farther forward (and the sear raise farther up) before the 3 way closes the bolt. : : See you have to be able to visualize and understand HOW it works and HOW is doesn't work to be able to really understand all those instructions. : : Always finnish 'Tuning' with the toilet paper test; The pull, hold, and slow release test; Check the bolt clears the feed chute; and The pull it as fast as you can go rapid, dry fire test. Then you can go play..... [ Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ WARPIG Tech Talk - Autococker / Minicocker ]