Posted by: PigTech on May 14, 2003 at 11:01:21 Forum Administrator

: I've learned that my cocker receiving block is not milled down far enough, and I need to get it fixed to mount my freak barrel back. I'm going to answer on the assumption that you are talking about the pneumatics block, the small block on the front where the ram, 4 way and low pressure regulator are mounted, because if it sticks up to high, it can interfere with barrel thickness. :I got it off ebay so there is no warranty, so what is good advice on how to get this work done properly and cheaply? : Should I send it to WGP and pay the normal costs for the work? If the "normal costs" are reasonable, that might be a good way to go, certainly with WGP taking care of it, you know that your gun will be taken care of. You might have them do a check out and tune-up at the same time. : Should I find a local paintball workshop to do it? Just as good an option, if they have a good airsmith. : Could it be done more cheaply by a normal gunsmith? Probably not. They may have the machinery to mill down the top of the block, but they won't have the experience in disassembling the pneumatics, re-assembling them, and re-timing the 4 way. : I have an artist friend that is good with his Dremel. Would he be able to do the job right? A Dremel could do the job, but there's still the issue of disassembly, re-assembly and re-timing. :How is the metal painted black again after being milled away? The metal isn't painted to start with, it's anodized. Re-anodizing a single part can run $100 or more, and wouldn't be a wise move as costs are concerned, unless you're building a "show gun." You could leave it bare aluminum - not that pretty, but unless you're constantly exposing it to a saltwater mist, you won't have problems. The other alternative is painting it with an enamel paint. That's not as durable as anodizing, and it won't match the anodizing, but it will work, and since that area is protected by the barrel, it won't be likely to get scratched up much. : other ideas? The other alternative, and the one I think WGP and most airsmiths would be likely to take - probably with a lower price tag than re-anodizing, is replacing the front block with a newer front block that will give more clearance. That still requires the skills of someone experienced in cocker work, but there's not custom machining and metal finishing involved. In fact you might know somoeone who is experienced in cocker work willing to do it, and simply buy a pneumatics block from a local store or online. See you on the field, -Bill Mills : : thanks

Follow Ups: Re: Doing milling work on my cocker; best source? Razorpb 14:48:16 05/14/03 (0) Post a Followup Show your name as: DefaultRealnameBothNickname E-Mail address (eg: joeschmoe@aol.com): Show your e-mail address? DefaultYesNo Your Password: Don't have a password? CLICK HERE - Forgot your password? CLICK HERE Subject: Subject:Message: : : I've learned that my cocker receiving block is not milled down far enough, and I need to get it fixed to mount my freak barrel back. : I'm going to answer on the assumption that you are talking about the pneumatics block, the small block on the front where the ram, 4 way and low pressure regulator are mounted, because if it sticks up to high, it can interfere with barrel thickness. : :I got it off ebay so there is no warranty, so what is good advice on how to get this work done properly and cheaply? : : Should I send it to WGP and pay the normal costs for the work? : If the "normal costs" are reasonable, that might be a good way to go, certainly with WGP taking care of it, you know that your gun will be taken care of. You might have them do a check out and tune-up at the same time. : : Should I find a local paintball workshop to do it? : Just as good an option, if they have a good airsmith. : : Could it be done more cheaply by a normal gunsmith? : Probably not. They may have the machinery to mill down the top of the block, but they won't have the experience in disassembling the pneumatics, re-assembling them, and re-timing the 4 way. : : I have an artist friend that is good with his Dremel. Would he be able to do the job right? : A Dremel could do the job, but there's still the issue of disassembly, re-assembly and re-timing. : :How is the metal painted black again after being milled away? : The metal isn't painted to start with, it's anodized. Re-anodizing a single part can run $100 or more, and wouldn't be a wise move as costs are concerned, unless you're building a "show gun." You could leave it bare aluminum - not that pretty, but unless you're constantly exposing it to a saltwater mist, you won't have problems. The other alternative is painting it with an enamel paint. That's not as durable as anodizing, and it won't match the anodizing, but it will work, and since that area is protected by the barrel, it won't be likely to get scratched up much. : : other ideas? : The other alternative, and the one I think WGP and most airsmiths would be likely to take - probably with a lower price tag than re-anodizing, is replacing the front block with a newer front block that will give more clearance. That still requires the skills of someone experienced in cocker work, but there's not custom machining and metal finishing involved. In fact you might know somoeone who is experienced in cocker work willing to do it, and simply buy a pneumatics block from a local store or online. : See you on the field, : -Bill Mills : : : : thanks [ Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ WARPIG Tech Talk - Autococker / Minicocker ]