Posted by: Razorpb on May 22, 2003 at 18:50:26

Down the barrel sounds like the cup seal, you'll need a valve tool to get at it. This will will affect the sear lug and will need to be adjusted back when you reassemble. Try this, insert your allen wrench as if you were adjusting the lug, line it up with the feed tube or other stationary part on you gun for reference, back it out 4 turns. Then when you put it back together, line it up and go in 4 turns and you'll end up just as you started. The 3 way leak will just need adjustment. If your not comfortable doing these things bring it or send to someone that knows what their doing, cocker will be a nightmare if you start messing around with things you know nothing about. A tech video might be a good option to become familiar with how the gun works and how to maintain it.Hope it helps. Razor : As far as the leak 'down the barrel' goes...does this go away after your 1st shot? On many cockers if you gas it up 'uncocked', the hammer can push hard enough on the valve to unseat it. This is quite normal and the solution is simple...make sure your marker is cocked before you gas it up. : If you have a persistant leak down the barrel, either your valve is probably not seating properly or the valve o-ring is shot. Try replacing the o-ring first. If that doesn't work, you could try a little motor oil on the valve seat, or you might need to increase your operating pressure (you'd also probably need to change springs). Your other option here is a new valve. (You can buy used stock valves for $5-10 on the B/S/T forums :)) : Your second leak is a bit trickier. The first thing to try is to increase your cocking pressure a bit. Sometimes this is enough. : There is the possibility that the o-rings on the 3-way shaft are shot. Ususally this is not the problem, but it's worth checking. Sometimes just re-lubing them will fix it. : Does your ram cycle at the beginning or very end of your trigger pull? You may want to time it so it cycles near the middle of your pull. Often, if a gun is timed 'on the edge' you can get 3-way leaks. : Is your trigger pull/return nice and smooth? If not, you might have some sort of alignment problem. Does the leak stop if you push/pull on the actuating rod? You could try loostening the 3-way body on the front block. It sounds strange, but there's no air flow between the block and the 3-way, and if it's a bit loose it will sometimes correct slight alignment problems. The pneumatic hoses will hold the 3 way in position and keep it from rotating. : Good Luck :)

Follow Ups: Post a Followup Show your name as: DefaultRealnameBothNickname E-Mail address (eg: joeschmoe@aol.com): Show your e-mail address? DefaultYesNo Your Password: Don't have a password? CLICK HERE - Forgot your password? CLICK HERE Subject: Subject:Message: : Down the barrel sounds like the cup seal, you'll need a valve tool to get at it. This will will affect the sear lug and will need to be adjusted back when you reassemble. Try this, insert your allen wrench as if you were adjusting the lug, line it up with the feed tube or other stationary part on you gun for reference, back it out 4 turns. Then when you put it back together, line it up and go in 4 turns and you'll end up just as you started. The 3 way leak will just need adjustment. If your not comfortable doing these things bring it or send to someone that knows what their doing, cocker will be a nightmare if you start messing around with things you know nothing about. A tech video might be a good option to become familiar with how the gun works and how to maintain it.Hope it helps. : Razor : : : As far as the leak 'down the barrel' goes...does this go away after your 1st shot? On many cockers if you gas it up 'uncocked', the hammer can push hard enough on the valve to unseat it. This is quite normal and the solution is simple...make sure your marker is cocked before you gas it up. : : If you have a persistant leak down the barrel, either your valve is probably not seating properly or the valve o-ring is shot. Try replacing the o-ring first. If that doesn't work, you could try a little motor oil on the valve seat, or you might need to increase your operating pressure (you'd also probably need to change springs). Your other option here is a new valve. (You can buy used stock valves for $5-10 on the B/S/T forums :)) : : Your second leak is a bit trickier. The first thing to try is to increase your cocking pressure a bit. Sometimes this is enough. : : There is the possibility that the o-rings on the 3-way shaft are shot. Ususally this is not the problem, but it's worth checking. Sometimes just re-lubing them will fix it. : : Does your ram cycle at the beginning or very end of your trigger pull? You may want to time it so it cycles near the middle of your pull. Often, if a gun is timed 'on the edge' you can get 3-way leaks. : : Is your trigger pull/return nice and smooth? If not, you might have some sort of alignment problem. Does the leak stop if you push/pull on the actuating rod? You could try loostening the 3-way body on the front block. It sounds strange, but there's no air flow between the block and the 3-way, and if it's a bit loose it will sometimes correct slight alignment problems. The pneumatic hoses will hold the 3 way in position and keep it from rotating. : : Good Luck :) [ Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ WARPIG Tech Talk - Autococker / Minicocker ]