Posted by: Vampyr on June 04, 2003 at 21:44:07

First, if it is a pre 2K bolt in a post 2K marker, you either need a shorter bolt (post 2K) or a pre-2K backblock. Now on to the points: : I'm certain that you simply need to reset the length of your cocking rod. But before you do that you should make sure your pump arm/back block is set correctly. : The back block is screwed onto the cocking rod (attached to the ram) You want to screw on the block such that, when the ram is all the way forward, the block barely misses touching the back of the body (there will ideally be a very small gap). **** Some people do this gased up, some ungassed. It makes a difference for how much the bumpers in the ram compress. : Once that's done you can set the cocking rod length. The rod's length is set by the knob on the back of the rod. To test the rod’s length, pull back the back block until the hammer catches the sear. You want the rod's length set so that, when the hammer catches the sear, the bolt has just cleared the breech. Some people prefer to see a sliver of bolt at this point. Either is fine. If you see more than a sliver of bolt at this point, lengthen the rod. If the bolt passes too far past the breach, shorten the rod. **** Noooo. not correct. you're comming at the adjustment from the wrong end. Cock the warker. Pull the backblock. from when the backblock contacts the cocking rod, to maximum extension of the ram should be 3/32" to 1/8". less than that risks not getting the sear up high enough before the hammer moves ahead. More than that causes undue stress and wear on the lug and sear as well as excessive stress on the main spring. Once that is set, check that the bolt clears the feed tube. The reason you go this way, is if you have a long throw ram, the bolt will clear the feed tube by upto 1/4" this is a good thing if you want high ROF. the ball cannot start to feed until the bolt is atleast 1/2 way open. If you can get the bolt atleast that far open before the backblock hits an uncocked cocking rod, your overall cycletime is reduced, as soon as the ram has to start compressing the main spring, the whole assembly slows down, and continues at a lower rate until the ram hits full extension. Once the ball is able to fall, it takes approximately 65mS for a gravity fed ball to chamber. if it can be falling before the bolt has finished it's rearward cycle, the amount of overlap in time, is the time shaved off the overall cycle time. (For the forward stroke on the bolt, the main spring adds alot of acceleration for the first 1/8" then the ram is alone, but on a basically freemoving part that is already up to speed, the extra throw adds almost nothing in this direction.) At any rate, adjust by how far it pulls the cocking rod rather than how much the bolt clears the feed. BTW how much the bolt opens is based on the back block setting, not the cocking rod, unless the velocity adjuster is in too deep or the cocking rod is way too short and stopping the rams rearward travel by bottoming the main spring. : Hope this helps.

Follow Ups: Interesting...(long response) BodyByHostess 12:36:14 06/06/03 (2) Re: Interesting...(long response) Vampyr 17:33:39 06/07/03 (1) Thanks for your response... BodyByHostess 10:00:50 06/09/03 (0) Post a Followup Show your name as: DefaultRealnameBothNickname E-Mail address (eg: joeschmoe@aol.com): Show your e-mail address? DefaultYesNo Your Password: Don't have a password? CLICK HERE - Forgot your password? CLICK HERE Subject: Subject:Message: : First, if it is a pre 2K bolt in a post 2K marker, you either need a shorter bolt (post 2K) or a pre-2K backblock. : Now on to the points: : : I'm certain that you simply need to reset the length of your cocking rod. But before you do that you should make sure your pump arm/back block is set correctly. : : The back block is screwed onto the cocking rod (attached to the ram) You want to screw on the block such that, when the ram is all the way forward, the block barely misses touching the back of the body (there will ideally be a very small gap). : **** Some people do this gased up, some ungassed. It makes a difference for how much the bumpers in the ram compress. : : Once that's done you can set the cocking rod length. The rod's length is set by the knob on the back of the rod. To test the rod’s length, pull back the back block until the hammer catches the sear. You want the rod's length set so that, when the hammer catches the sear, the bolt has just cleared the breech. Some people prefer to see a sliver of bolt at this point. Either is fine. If you see more than a sliver of bolt at this point, lengthen the rod. If the bolt passes too far past the breach, shorten the rod. : **** Noooo. not correct. you're comming at the adjustment from the wrong end. Cock the warker. Pull the backblock. from when the backblock contacts the cocking rod, to maximum extension of the ram should be 3/32" to 1/8". less than that risks not getting the sear up high enough before the hammer moves ahead. More than that causes undue stress and wear on the lug and sear as well as excessive stress on the main spring. Once that is set, check that the bolt clears the feed tube. The reason you go this way, is if you have a long throw ram, the bolt will clear the feed tube by upto 1/4" this is a good thing if you want high ROF. the ball cannot start to feed until the bolt is atleast 1/2 way open. If you can get the bolt atleast that far open before the backblock hits an uncocked cocking rod, your overall cycletime is reduced, as soon as the ram has to start compressing the main spring, the whole assembly slows down, and continues at a lower rate until the ram hits full extension. Once the ball is able to fall, it takes approximately 65mS for a gravity fed ball to chamber. if it can be falling before the bolt has finished it's rearward cycle, the amount of overlap in time, is the time shaved off the overall cycle time. (For the forward stroke on the bolt, the main spring adds alot of acceleration for the first 1/8" then the ram is alone, but on a basically freemoving part that is already up to speed, the extra throw adds almost nothing in this direction.) : At any rate, adjust by how far it pulls the cocking rod rather than how much the bolt clears the feed. : BTW how much the bolt opens is based on the back block setting, not the cocking rod, unless the velocity adjuster is in too deep or the cocking rod is way too short and stopping the rams rearward travel by bottoming the main spring. : : Hope this helps. [ Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ WARPIG Tech Talk - Autococker / Minicocker ]