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WARPIG Tech Talk - Autococker / Minicocker

The Quest for Accuracy

In Reply to: Barrels and Paint posted by Marvin_the_Martian on June 19, 2003 at 02:08:31:


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Posted by:
Dale "Head_Hunters" DuPont
on June 23, 2003 at 10:14:28

First, I been working on the Perfect Cocker for 6 years and a tournament player stomach would be turned if asked to play with it.

Mine is set up for scenerio play as a zniper.

Very Quiet, 18" zilenced barrel, pneumatic sniper mode, very light, short pull, auto rangefinder, invisible paint.

Working on a 'decoy' as we speak. Electronically timed with my markers firing, the decoy plays a sound chip recording of a paintball marker firing at about 110 db. It can be located anywhere within a 100 foot radius.

Secondly, whatever cocker you get, no matter how many or few gizmos you put on it, the Cocker will out shoot your ability to point it for several years... After 6 years with a cocker, it STILL shoots better than I do...

We all like 'an edge' but don't fall into the 'marketing trap' about upgrades. Technology does NOT make you a player. Practice does...

Point is: You need to share with us HOW you plan to play with your cocker so we can get the performance out of it that YOU NEED to play with.

Accuracy is PRIMARILY as function of Paint Quality!

A Freak can make GOOD PAINT shoot a LITTLE Better.
A Freak will make Field Paint shoot a Little Better too but you won't be able to see the difference on the field of play. So a waste of money if you plan to use field paint from an accuracy point of view.

Paintball paint isn't Round. Even the Good Stuff.
Good paint is a LOT rounder than field paint.

Take a barrel off any marker and put a ball in it.
Hold it up to the light and look for the gaps between the wall and ball. Take it out and turn the SAME ball 90 degree and put it back in. Look again. See, it is different. NOT ROUND.

Next you will hear the speal about 'matching the paint to the barrel'. Well, you will have a Hard Time doing it. If you measure the GOOD paint, it will be .006" out of round. The Field Paint will range from .025" - .040" out of round.

Paint 'average' diameter changes lot to lot within the SAME BRAND of Paint.

SOME Manufacturers even make it SMALLER in diameter on purpose for the winter months. A little blowby reduces barrel breaks.

AND THAT IS WHY THE FREAK BARRELS ARE SO POPULAR!
They have 8 inserts that have 8 different bore sizes so you can match an insert with whatever diameter ball you have today.... Other manufacturers are following along as well.

If you can't BYOPaint at your local field, play scenerio or tournament play where you HAVE to use their paint, the different size inserts can come in REAL HANDY!

My Invisible Paint happens to be one that the manufacture makes smaller for the winter months.
Shoots fine in the summer but will roll out the barrel and drop on the ground in the winter. A real Pain for us cocker owners as the ball detent only prevents double feeds but does NOTHING to hold the ball from rolling down the barrel. (The closed bolt design has the ball resting in Front of the Ball Detent)

Again, the Freak system can prevent this by selecting a snug enough barrel insert that the ball won't roll out.

The FACT that paint isn't ROUND should answer the question about rifled barrels. Anything that puts spin on a ball that isn't ROUND will have a CURVED FLIGHT PATH. A BAD THING for accuracy.

Now there are TWO Kinds of rifled barrels.
Straight rifling and spriral rifling.

You can pick up a spriral rifled barrels CHEAP on the USED Paintball Classified. There is a reason for that.

Mixed Reviews on the straight rifled barrels.

The trend is currently towards the following:

The two stage, two piece, two diameter progressively larger bore barrels ARE the current state of the art in accurate barrels. Many manufacturers.

The paintball is deformed when accelerated in the first part of the barrel. It is flattened front to back like a donut. If it is flattened too much, you get a hole though the center. Called a barrel break. A donut won't fly too straight through the air. It will start to tumble in one direction or another. Hence the second stage of the barrel with a larger diameter and porting. The porting vents the excess air charge. The ball literally STOPS accelerating. It is Coasting. The ball has a chance to 'round' up while still in the barrel. The oversize bore of the second stage gives it room to 'round up' and decreases drag on the ball to improve your air efficiency. The second stage becomes nothing more than a ball guide by the time the ball leaves the barrel tip.

They significantly improve accuracy.

Get one that screws apart. Not a one piece. That way you can buy a 18" front for scenerio ball and SWITCH to a 10" for tournament ball. $40 for a Freak Front.

The universal features you want to look for in a cocker is LP 200-300 psi operating pressures. The LP accelerates the ball more slowly and thus deforms it less.

A shortened 3 way with a mechanical trigger.

Roller Sear and spring set if you go with a slide trigger.

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