Posted by: Dale "Head_Hunters" DuPont on July 09, 2003 at 11:52:30

: First, I know it isn't the paint. YOU DID CHECK RIGHT? Second, it isn't a new gun, it's anything BUT new YES A 99. IS IT TIME FOR A GOOD CLEANING SINCE YOU USE CO2? IT IS DIRTIER THAN NITRO. DID LUBING HELP OR NOT? IF YES, I WOULD RECOMMEND A GOOD CLEANING AND RE LUBE. : PS: I also read something about how the exhaust valve spring might be weakend. This would make sense since it is an old gun. How would I go about verifying whether this is the problem and how would I fix it. Thanks again. There is no exhaust valve and thus no exhaust valve spring. Each end of the ram vents to atmosphere though the 3 way valve. Some people do a mod with an exhaust valve. I am unfamiliar with it... Doubt you have it unless your ram looks modified externally. : Now for the questions. The "burping scenario". Very familiar to all of us... When the bolt closes, the sear lug is not engaging the sear properly. It literally bounces over the sear. The hammer spring is pushing the hammer forward as the back block releases the cocking rod. The hammer bumps the valve stem and you release some air and it "Burps". Four major causes: 1. Sear lug not deep enough. But make sure your firing point stays in the front 20% of your trigger pull length or you just might create a blowback problem. If it does, then #4 below is the likely the culprit. 2. The cock rod length is backing out or too short. Ungassed, cock the marker using the back block. Look at the position of the cocking rod and make sure you can pull the back block and cocking rod 1/16" - 3/32" farther back from the sear engaged position. 3. The sear return spring is too light. Stock spring should be fine. Beware aftermarket lighter sear springs can cause this problem. 4. 3 Way is out of time. The sear slides on a ramp on the trigger plate. As the trigger plate goes forward, the sear returns to the full upright position to engage the sear fully. If the 3 way closes the bolt and releases the hammer cocking rod BEFORE the sear is in the full up position, it can cause the sear lug to miss, inconsistently engage or just bump over the sear lug. All causing "Burps" A quick way to check if this is suspect is you gas up the marker with no paint. Pull and HOLD the trigger. AS SLOWLY as possible, let the trigger plate creep forward until the 3 way closes. Observe if the hammer is cocked indicating that the sear has engaged with the sear lug. If it skips over and burps, The 3 way timing is suspect. The fix is to LENGTHEN the 3 way timing rod so the trigger plate can move farther forward (and the sear raise farther up) before the 3 way closes the bolt. See you have to be able to visualize and understand HOW it works and HOW is doesn't work to be able to really understand all those instructions. Always finish 'Tuning' with the toilet paper test; The pull, hold, and slow release test; Check the bolt clears the feed chute; and The pull it as fast as you can go rapid, dry fire test. Then you can go play.....

Follow Ups: retimed... Steve "Sneaky Man" Herman 17:19:22 07/09/03 (0) Post a Followup Show your name as: DefaultRealnameBothNickname E-Mail address (eg: joeschmoe@aol.com): Show your e-mail address? DefaultYesNo Your Password: Don't have a password? CLICK HERE - Forgot your password? CLICK HERE Subject: Subject:Message: : : First, I know it isn't the paint. YOU DID CHECK RIGHT? : Second, it isn't a new gun, it's anything BUT new YES A 99. IS IT TIME FOR A GOOD CLEANING SINCE YOU USE CO2? IT IS DIRTIER THAN NITRO. : DID LUBING HELP OR NOT? IF YES, I WOULD RECOMMEND A GOOD CLEANING AND RE LUBE. : : PS: I also read something about how the exhaust valve spring might be weakend. This would make sense since it is an old gun. How would I go about verifying whether this is the problem and how would I fix it. Thanks again. : There is no exhaust valve and thus no exhaust valve spring. Each end of the ram vents to atmosphere though the 3 way valve. Some people do a mod with an exhaust valve. I am unfamiliar with it... Doubt you have it unless your ram looks modified externally. : : : Now for the questions. : The "burping scenario". Very familiar to all of us... : When the bolt closes, the sear lug is not engaging the sear properly. It literally bounces over the sear. The hammer spring is pushing the hammer forward as the back block releases the cocking rod. The hammer bumps the valve stem and you release some air and it "Burps". : Four major causes: : 1. Sear lug not deep enough. But make sure your firing point stays in the front 20% of your trigger pull length or you just might create a blowback problem. If it does, then #4 below is the likely the culprit. : 2. The cock rod length is backing out or too short. Ungassed, cock the marker using the back block. Look at the position of the cocking rod and make sure you can pull the back block and cocking rod 1/16" - 3/32" farther back from the sear engaged position. : 3. The sear return spring is too light. Stock spring should be fine. Beware aftermarket lighter sear springs can cause this problem. : 4. 3 Way is out of time. The sear slides on a ramp on the trigger plate. As the trigger plate goes forward, the sear returns to the full upright position to engage the sear fully. If the 3 way closes the bolt and releases the hammer cocking rod BEFORE the sear is in the full up position, it can cause the sear lug to miss, inconsistently engage or just bump over the sear lug. All causing "Burps" : A quick way to check if this is suspect is you gas up the marker with no paint. Pull and HOLD the trigger. AS SLOWLY as possible, let the trigger plate creep forward until the 3 way closes. Observe if the hammer is cocked indicating that the sear has engaged with the sear lug. : If it skips over and burps, The 3 way timing is suspect. The fix is to LENGTHEN the 3 way timing rod so the trigger plate can move farther forward (and the sear raise farther up) before the 3 way closes the bolt. : See you have to be able to visualize and understand HOW it works and HOW is doesn't work to be able to really understand all those instructions. : Always finish 'Tuning' with the toilet paper test; The pull, hold, and slow release test; Check the bolt clears the feed chute; and The pull it as fast as you can go rapid, dry fire test. Then you can go play..... [ Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ WARPIG Tech Talk - Autococker / Minicocker ]