Posted by: Dale "Head_Hunters" DuPont on July 09, 2003 at 13:08:31

: What is the TP test? The Autococker Toilet Paper (TP) Test Do the TP Test BEFORE any troubleshooting. That can give you some really BIG CLUES what is wrong. Do the TP Test AFTER any changes that could possibly affect the Autococker’s timing. Specifically after changing the Sear Lug depth, 3 Way Rod length, Grip Removal, Any Upgrades, Cleanings, and ALL timing adjustments. Do the TP Test Before you start each day’s paintball play. Beats having problems on the field. 1. It is MOST Sensitive when used with the stock unported autococker barrel. (Finally a use for it!) If you don’t have one, borrow one or buy one for $5. Otherwise make do. It will still work. 2. Remove the hopper and any paintballs in the chamber. 3. Gas it up. 4. Roll up a piece of tissue. a. When you get done it should NOT be wet. b. It should be about ¼” in diameter. c. It should STAY in a ball shape and not expand beyond ½” in diameter. 5. Position your Autococker so the ball chute is HORIZONTAL with the ground. 6. Place the ball in the ball chute resting against the closed bolt. 7. Dry fire the Autococker by crisply pulling and HOLDING the trigger pulled. Do this several times so you are satisfied you are getting a consistent result. One of three things should result: a. The TP ball is blown some distance out of the ball chute. That is the result of ‘blow back’. Air pressure is in the barrel when the bolt opens. The air pressure blows back up the ball chute causing ball misfeeds, chopped balls, and a host of performance related problems. b. The TP ball sometimes stays put, barely is blown out the ball chute, or inconsistently goes into the chamber when the bolt opens. You STILL have some blowback. The Autococker will work Most of the Time but you start having inconsistent performance and ball feed problems at higher rates of fire. c. The TP ball is consistently sucked into the barrel / ball chamber. Yes, a properly tuned Autococker actually SUCKS! It will literally help suck the ball into firing position. REMEMBER that, you have to crisply pull and HOLD the trigger with the bolt open so air can Move into the chamber carrying the TP ball. Why? How? When you fire the marker, air is discharged down the barrel. It has MASS and because it is moving, INERTIA. Newton’s Law dictates that the Air Molecules want to keep on moving forward down the barrel due to their inertia even though they aren’t expanding apart any more. The result is that a Negative Pressure develops in the receiver end of the barrel as those air molecules continue to move forward. And this occurs ONLY for a VERY SMALL MOMENT in TIME. It all happens during milliseconds (1 thousandth of a second) Maybe even fractions of one. Then air molecules will move BACKWARDS in the barrel to equalize that momentary negative pressure. During that VERY SMALL MOMENT IN TIME, it would be Very Beneficial to open the bolt and expose that next ball in your ball chute to that Negative Pressure. There is a well-timed Autococker and a ‘Perfectly’ Timed Autococker. You would never notice the difference until you get to very high rates of fire in excess of 10 balls per second. Within that VERY SMALL MOMENT in TIME there is an Ideal Max Negative pressure to be synchronized with a full open bolt. Either end of that window of time when a negative pressure exists, is less than ideal. That is where that unported stock Autococker barrel comes in. It is a LONG COLUMN of moving air… It is twice as long as the unported section of most ported barrels. d. Using the unported barrel you can get the a, b, and c results listed above but you can also obtain THIS result. The TP ball will be sucked into the barrel AND shoot out the barrel tip! Because you are holding the trigger pulled, the bolt open, and have more Air Mass (with more Inertia) moving down the barrel from the longer barrel length, then the TP ball is carried along with it and right out the end of the barrel. Now that is an Autococker that REALLY SUCKS! Now you have to figure out what you have to do to get it to suck good enough for your playing style. That is a different article.

Follow Ups: Post a Followup Show your name as: DefaultRealnameBothNickname E-Mail address (eg: joeschmoe@aol.com): Show your e-mail address? DefaultYesNo Your Password: Don't have a password? CLICK HERE - Forgot your password? CLICK HERE Subject: Subject:Message: : : What is the TP test? : The Autococker Toilet Paper (TP) Test : Do the TP Test BEFORE any troubleshooting. That can give you some really BIG CLUES what is wrong. : Do the TP Test AFTER any changes that could possibly affect the Autococker’s timing. Specifically after changing the Sear Lug depth, 3 Way Rod length, Grip Removal, Any Upgrades, Cleanings, and ALL timing adjustments. : Do the TP Test Before you start each day’s paintball play. Beats having problems on the field. : 1. It is MOST Sensitive when used with the stock unported autococker barrel. (Finally a use for it!) If you don’t have one, borrow one or buy one for $5. Otherwise make do. It will still work. : 2. Remove the hopper and any paintballs in the chamber. : 3. Gas it up. : 4. Roll up a piece of tissue. : a. When you get done it should NOT be wet. : b. It should be about ¼” in diameter. : c. It should STAY in a ball shape and not expand beyond ½” in diameter. : 5. Position your Autococker so the ball chute is HORIZONTAL with the ground. : 6. Place the ball in the ball chute resting against the closed bolt. : 7. Dry fire the Autococker by crisply pulling and HOLDING the trigger pulled. Do this several times so you are satisfied you are getting a consistent result. One of three things should result: : a. The TP ball is blown some distance out of the ball chute. That is the result of ‘blow back’. Air pressure is in the barrel when the bolt opens. The air pressure blows back up the ball chute causing ball misfeeds, chopped balls, and a host of performance related problems. : b. The TP ball sometimes stays put, barely is blown out the ball chute, or inconsistently goes into the chamber when the bolt opens. You STILL have some blowback. The Autococker will work Most of the Time but you start having inconsistent performance and ball feed problems at higher rates of fire. : : c. The TP ball is consistently sucked into the barrel / ball chamber. Yes, a properly tuned Autococker actually SUCKS! It will literally help suck the ball into firing position. REMEMBER that, you have to crisply pull and HOLD the trigger with the bolt open so air can Move into the chamber carrying the TP ball. : : Why? How? When you fire the marker, air is discharged down the barrel. It has MASS and because it is moving, INERTIA. Newton’s Law dictates that the Air Molecules want to keep on moving forward down the barrel due to their inertia even though they aren’t expanding apart any more. The result is that a Negative Pressure develops in the receiver end of the barrel as those air molecules continue to move forward. And this occurs ONLY for a VERY SMALL MOMENT in TIME. It all happens during milliseconds (1 thousandth of a second) Maybe even fractions of one. : Then air molecules will move BACKWARDS in the barrel to equalize that momentary negative pressure. : During that VERY SMALL MOMENT IN TIME, it would be Very Beneficial to open the bolt and expose that next ball in your ball chute to that Negative Pressure. : There is a well-timed Autococker and a ‘Perfectly’ Timed Autococker. You would never notice the difference until you get to very high rates of fire in excess of 10 balls per second. Within that VERY SMALL MOMENT in TIME there is an Ideal Max Negative pressure to be synchronized with a full open bolt. Either end of that window of time when a negative pressure exists, is less than ideal. : That is where that unported stock Autococker barrel comes in. It is a LONG COLUMN of moving air… It is twice as long as the unported section of most ported barrels. : d. Using the unported barrel you can get the a, b, and c results listed above but you can also obtain THIS result. The TP ball will be sucked into the barrel AND shoot out the barrel tip! Because you are holding the trigger pulled, the bolt open, and have more Air Mass (with more Inertia) moving down the barrel from the longer barrel length, then the TP ball is carried along with it and right out the end of the barrel. Now that is an Autococker that REALLY SUCKS! : : Now you have to figure out what you have to do to get it to suck good enough for your playing style. That is a different article. [ Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ WARPIG Tech Talk - Autococker / Minicocker ]