Posted by: Dale "Head_Hunters" DuPont on August 31, 2003 at 13:42:01

It is normally plenty enough to have the bolt clear the ball chute. Likely your problem. Good diagnosis on your part. Just a good look over can solve a lot of problems. So you have to ask yourself what is interfering backwards travel of the bolt/back block assembly? Stop and think about it right now. There is ONLY two things than can interfere with back block travel. What is it? How would you eliminate one possibility or the other to determine the cause? Then you would know what to fix and how. Think it through then read way down below for the answer: I think you know your marker well enough to figure it out and think it through. Dale The two things are: The adjustment union connecting the ram to the long ram connecting rod that attaches to the back block is too short. The ram is bottoming out before the bolt clears the ball chute properly. It rarely gets out of adjustment. Usually ONLY when someone takes it off and puts it back on by screwing it in ALL the way. If you haven't messed with it, that is likely NOT the problem. The other possibility is cocking rod nut is preventing the back block from going all the way back. The cocking rod is attached to the hammer and it is hitting the back of its travel inside the receiver and stopping all movement BEFORE the bolt clears the ball chute. It might need to be adjusted so the cocking rod is LONGER. The Quick Test is to just remove the cocking rod. Gas it up and pull and hold the trigger. If the bolt clears the ball chute, you need to lengthen the cocking rod. If it STILL doesn't clear the ball chute, it HAS to be the union adjustment connecting the rod going the the back block. The problem you described IS ver Suspect and needs to be fixed regardless but if that doesn't solve your problem entirely............ I would think problems with balls clearing the bolt would happen more often than once per 50 rounds. But maybe if you don't shoot that fast, that often. Most people get excited and try to go too fast. I still do it after 8 years and make a mess out of my marker right when I need it to work the most... But your were fair sure you weren't short stroking... Don't forget to do the TP test for a little blowback that you may have occuring during higher rates of fire that don't show up during regular rates of fire or show up with your standard TP test because it is done with a slow, single shot and wouldn't show up until you fire rapidly in a field play situation. The best way to SUPER fine tune that is to use the stock unported barrel. It is much more sensitive than a ported barrel. If it is Perfectly timed, the tissue will be sucked in and follow the column of air right out the barrel and land on the ground in front of you. You always get a "WOW!" from any other cocker owners that obserbes that happen. The trick to using the stock barrel and any other for matter, is to pull and HOLD the trigger so the bolt STAYS OPEN during the test so the column of air can continue to flow into, through, and out the fron of the barrel. If you let the bolt close, it shuts off the flow of air. Thus the TP can't come out the barrel muzzle. It won't do that with a ported barrel even though it will suck it in and you can decide it is good enough because it sucked it in. Using the unported stock barrel will allow you to make it "perfect". I have a VERY short 3 way. A #@$$%! to time. 1/8 turn either side of "Perfect" will give me a low frequency of chops and other performance related problems much like you described. If you don't have an unported barrel, Ask around you can get one for free or $5. Worth it for the high performance marker owner. Just use it for tuning. If you don't have one, just try an 1/8 turn LONGER on your 3 way and/or a VERY MINOR sear lug adjustment to move the firing point a little farther forward (clockwise). Let us know what it turned out to be..

Follow Ups: Post a Followup Show your name as: DefaultRealnameBothNickname E-Mail address (eg: joeschmoe@aol.com): Show your e-mail address? DefaultYesNo Your Password: Don't have a password? CLICK HERE - Forgot your password? CLICK HERE Subject: Subject:Message: : It is normally plenty enough to have the bolt clear the ball chute. Likely your problem. Good diagnosis on your part. Just a good look over can solve a lot of problems. : So you have to ask yourself what is interfering backwards travel of the bolt/back block assembly? : Stop and think about it right now. There is ONLY two things than can interfere with back block travel. What is it? How would you eliminate one possibility or the other to determine the cause? Then you would know what to fix and how. : Think it through then read way down below for the answer: I think you know your marker well enough to figure it out and think it through. : Dale : The two things are: The adjustment union connecting the ram to the long ram connecting rod : that attaches to the back block is too short. The ram is bottoming out before the bolt clears the ball chute properly. It rarely gets out of adjustment. Usually ONLY when someone takes it off and puts it back on by screwing it in ALL the way. If you haven't messed with it, that is likely NOT the problem. : : The other possibility is cocking rod nut is preventing the back block from going all the way back. The cocking rod is attached to the hammer and it is hitting the back of its travel inside the receiver and stopping all movement BEFORE the bolt clears the ball chute. It might need to be adjusted so the cocking rod is LONGER. : The Quick Test is to just remove the cocking rod. : Gas it up and pull and hold the trigger. If the bolt clears the ball chute, you need to lengthen the cocking rod. If it STILL doesn't clear the ball chute, it HAS to be the union adjustment connecting the rod going the the back block. : The problem you described IS ver Suspect and needs to be fixed regardless but if that doesn't solve your problem entirely............ : I would think problems with balls clearing the bolt would happen more often than once per 50 rounds. But maybe if you don't shoot that fast, that often. Most people get excited and try to go too fast. I still do it after 8 years and make a mess out of my marker right when I need it to work the most... But your were fair sure you weren't short stroking... : Don't forget to do the TP test for a little blowback that you may have occuring during higher rates of fire that don't show up during regular rates of fire or show up with your standard TP test because it is done with a slow, single shot and wouldn't show up until you fire rapidly in a field play situation. : The best way to SUPER fine tune that is to use the stock unported barrel. It is much more sensitive than a ported barrel. : If it is Perfectly timed, the tissue will be sucked in and follow the column of air right out the barrel and land on the ground in front of you. You always get a "WOW!" from any other cocker owners that obserbes that happen. : The trick to using the stock barrel and any other for matter, is to pull and HOLD the trigger so the bolt STAYS OPEN during the test so the column of air can continue to flow into, through, and out the fron of the barrel. If you let the bolt close, it shuts off the flow of air. Thus the TP can't come out the barrel muzzle. : It won't do that with a ported barrel even though it will suck it in and you can decide it is good enough because it sucked it in. Using the unported stock barrel will allow you to make it "perfect". : I have a VERY short 3 way. A #@$$%! to time. : 1/8 turn either side of "Perfect" will give me a low frequency of chops and other performance related problems much like you described. If you don't have an unported barrel, Ask around you can get one for free or $5. Worth it for the high performance marker owner. Just use it for tuning. : If you don't have one, just try an 1/8 turn LONGER on your 3 way and/or a VERY MINOR sear lug adjustment to move the firing point a little farther forward (clockwise). : Let us know what it turned out to be.. [ Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ WARPIG Tech Talk - Autococker / Minicocker ]