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WARPIG Tech Talk - Autococker / Minicocker

Re: Screw on bottom of front block?

In Reply to: Screw on bottom of front block? posted by paint_fodder on September 09, 2003 at 17:30:41:


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Posted by:
Dale "Head_Hunters" DuPont
on September 13, 2003 at 17:37:57

They use Red Loctite as if BLUE wouldn't work.


Jeeeeesss! It it a 1/8 NPT pipe thread! A tapered thread that is SELF SEALING and shouldn't need ANYTHING.

So WHEN is WGP going to start listening to their CUSTOMERS and just use a little Blue.....?

Mine was a 98 and I HAD to take the whole front block off and remove all the pneumatics and O rings for the front block seals.

Used a propane torch and it got a little hot before it came loose. Had to use wood blocks in the vice to hold it. Insulation. That front block is aluminum and a VERY GOOD heat sink. When the whole thing got hot it came right out.


BUT If you use a BRAND NEW HARDENED STEEL ALLEN WRENCH, it should torque right out with some leverage. The problem is we all have the old, cheap ones that have the corners rounded off and it will spin instead of unscrew and THEN you have a messed up front block thread...


I liked Razors idea of heating the Allen to just heat the screw plug. But you have two problems.

One the aluminum block will transfer heat away FASTER heat than the steel can transfer it. What you are trying to do is heat up the local area around the plug without damaging your O ring seal.

Two is that the heating the allen wrench will take all the temper out of the hardened steel allen and it WILL immediately round out.

Well, a use for that old, cheap allen wrench with the rounded off corners.......

Put THAT one in the plug and HEAT the ALLEN WRENCH RED HOT with the torch instead of the block. When the plug gets hot and the Locktite gets soft, put in the GOOD hardened allen wrench VERY QUICKLY and give it a good twist. ASAP!


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