Posted by: Dale "Head_Hunters" DuPont on November 26, 2003 at 10:32:24

First, if it isn't set right, it is a WARRENTY Item. Your local store will fix it. Oh! You bought it CHEAP off the Internet? You could send it back to the manufacturer... Just don't VOID your warrenty by taking it apart and screwing it up good. Find out what is wrong first and then make a judgement if you want to do it yourself with your friends help or us here at WARPIG.. Do this diagnostic Ungassed. Pull the bolt ALL the way Back. Does it clear then? If yes, your pump rod length is FINE. You front pneumatic reg pressure setting may be too low. Or ram, bolt, hammer dirty and gummy. But you SAID it was NEW. If NO, then REMOVE your cocking rod that screws into your hammer. Pull the bolt all the way back again. Does it clear the chute now? If YES, it is the cocking rod length that needs to be LONGER. If NO, MEASURE the backward travel of the pump rod. With the bolt CLOSED, Mark a line on the pump rod right at the even with the back of the receiver. Use a water marker or piece of tape and a pen or pencil line. Then pull the bolt ALL the way BACK. Mark another line on the rod at the back of the receiver again. Measure the distance between the lines. It should be 7/8" to 1". More than enough to clear the ball chute. If NOT, then remove the bolt and unscrew the back block off of the pump rod. Be careful NOT to bend the rod or, More Likely, the RAM shaft while you do this. Then repeat the measurement procedure again. It should be 7/8" to 1". If yes, you need to lengthen the pump rod length AT the union where the ram is attached. If not, you have a problem with your RAM. Not likely. Very remote chance unless someone BENT the ram shaft. Now you should know WHAT is Wrong. The BAD News is that IF it IS the pump rod length, it is / used to be, Loctited at the factory inside the union. One or Both shafts. Only one MIGHT need to be but Both frequently are. Pray NOT anymore. It doesn't need to be Loctited so DON'T during reassembly. Some say the ram piston can rotate and unscrew itself from vibration. Mine hasn't in the last 6 years. But IF you have the URGE, put ONE drop of Blue Loctite on the OUTSIDE of the threads at the RAM End of the Union... All you need to have peace of mind about it creeping out of adjustment. The pump rod is bent to fit into the body grove. That will keep THAT end from rotating. You have TWO choices. Do it right and adjust it AT the union. I'd let the factory / dealer do this. If Loctited, it is a REAL pain and very EASY to burger up the ram shaft and ruin it, bend it and ruin it. Etc. Many Pitfalls... Not a task for the new guy with a cocker. I base that on PERSONAL experience. It cost me a new ram but I know how NOT to do it now.... The other choice is what 95% of the players do. Just NOT screw the back block onto the pump rod ALL the way. That makes it longer too. It can work. But that is NOT the way to do it. The downside is the back block is LOOSE on those threads, The cycling action works the back block left and right as it cycles on those threads. The soft aluminum thread in your back block is worn out over time from that stainless steel pump rod working back and forth inside the threaded hole. It make NOISE as well. The clackity clack is much Louder when recocking. The pump rod length should always be done at the back end of the ram / pump rod union. The pump rod end should be SEATED inside the back block at all times. Let us know what it turned out to be..... I'm guessing WGP still turns out a quality product that works properly right out of the box. Or was it someone else's knock off cocker....? I'm guessing it was a COLD day and you haven't put two drops of 3 in 1 oil in the ASA yet to lube the interals properly. Was the bolt and hammer lubed yet. 3 in 1 again? Stuff hangs up in the cold if not lubed. My next guess is higher front reg pressure setting for cold weather play but they usually set it HIGH enough for year round play. Us Tweakers lower it to the edge for the summer and find we have to bump it back up just a tab to play in the winter at 30 degrees.

Follow Ups: Re: Could be OTHER Things Kyle De_Young 11:54:03 11/27/03 (2) Lengthen the Cocking Rod Dale "Head_Hunters" DuPont 18:29:02 12/01/03 (0) Re: Could be OTHER Things Derek "saltnvinegar6287" Meinke 15:41:08 11/27/03 (0) Post a Followup Show your name as: DefaultRealnameBothNickname E-Mail address (eg: joeschmoe@aol.com): Show your e-mail address? DefaultYesNo Your Password: Don't have a password? CLICK HERE - Forgot your password? CLICK HERE Subject: Subject:Message: : First, if it isn't set right, it is a WARRENTY Item. Your local store will fix it. : Oh! You bought it CHEAP off the Internet? : You could send it back to the manufacturer... : Just don't VOID your warrenty by taking it apart and screwing it up good. Find out what is wrong first and then make a judgement if you want to do it yourself with your friends help or us here at WARPIG.. : Do this diagnostic Ungassed. : Pull the bolt ALL the way Back. : Does it clear then? If yes, your pump rod length is FINE. You front pneumatic reg pressure setting may be too low. Or ram, bolt, hammer dirty and gummy. But you SAID it was NEW. : If NO, then REMOVE your cocking rod that screws into your hammer. : Pull the bolt all the way back again. Does it clear the chute now? : If YES, it is the cocking rod length that needs to be LONGER. : If NO, MEASURE the backward travel of the pump rod. : With the bolt CLOSED, Mark a line on the pump rod right at the even with the back of the receiver. Use a water marker or piece of tape and a pen or pencil line. Then pull the bolt ALL the way BACK. Mark another line on the rod at the back of the receiver again. Measure the distance between the lines. It should be 7/8" to 1". More than enough to clear the ball chute. : If NOT, then remove the bolt and unscrew the back block off of the pump rod. Be careful NOT to bend the rod or, More Likely, the RAM shaft while you do this. : Then repeat the measurement procedure again. It should be 7/8" to 1". If yes, you need to lengthen the pump rod length AT the union where the ram is attached. : If not, you have a problem with your RAM. Not likely. Very remote chance unless someone BENT the ram shaft. : Now you should know WHAT is Wrong. : The BAD News is that IF it IS the pump rod length, it is / used to be, Loctited at the factory inside the union. One or Both shafts. Only one MIGHT need to be but Both frequently are. : Pray NOT anymore. It doesn't need to be Loctited so DON'T during reassembly. : Some say the ram piston can rotate and unscrew itself from vibration. Mine hasn't in the last 6 years. But IF you have the URGE, put ONE drop of Blue Loctite on the OUTSIDE of the threads at the RAM End of the Union... All you need to have peace of mind about it creeping out of adjustment. : The pump rod is bent to fit into the body grove. That will keep THAT end from rotating. : You have TWO choices. : Do it right and adjust it AT the union. I'd let the factory / dealer do this. If Loctited, it is a REAL pain and very EASY to burger up the ram shaft and ruin it, bend it and ruin it. Etc. Many Pitfalls... Not a task for the new guy with a cocker. I base that on PERSONAL experience. It cost me a new ram but I know how NOT to do it now.... : The other choice is what 95% of the players do. Just NOT screw the back block onto the pump rod ALL the way. That makes it longer too. It can work. But that is NOT the way to do it. The downside is the back block is LOOSE on those threads, The cycling action works the back block left and right as it cycles on those threads. The soft aluminum thread in your back block is worn out over time from that stainless steel pump rod working back and forth inside the threaded hole. It make NOISE as well. The clackity clack is much Louder when recocking. : The pump rod length should always be done at the back end of the ram / pump rod union. The pump rod end should be SEATED inside the back block at all times. : Let us know what it turned out to be..... : I'm guessing WGP still turns out a quality product that works properly right out of the box. : Or was it someone else's knock off cocker....? : I'm guessing it was a COLD day and you haven't put two drops of 3 in 1 oil in the ASA yet to lube the interals properly. Was the bolt and hammer lubed yet. 3 in 1 again? Stuff hangs up in the cold if not lubed. : My next guess is higher front reg pressure setting for cold weather play but they usually set it HIGH enough for year round play. Us Tweakers lower it to the edge for the summer and find we have to bump it back up just a tab to play in the winter at 30 degrees. [ Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ WARPIG Tech Talk - Autococker / Minicocker ]