Posted by: Dale "Head_Hunters" DuPont on January 05, 2004 at 10:17:53

: Ok, IM having a few problums: : (1) How do you properly adjust a three way, and how do you know when it is properly tuned in? Look for an E mail from me how to do the TP Test. That will tell you when you have it RIGHT. Lots of written instructions How to Time on the Internet. SOMEBODY direct him to one. I don't have them bookmarked. ": (2) The Back block is being ground down by the rod coming out the back because the back block does not sit flush, it is slanted, how do you get it to be equal, then when I adjust the cocking rod the threads that screw in to the back block grind against the body, how do you fix that?" The ram to back block steel rod is wearing inside the grove of the receiver body? Normal but a small O ring slipped over the rod and some 3 in 1 oil will reduce this wear AND make it a little quieter recocking. You want the rod to slide inside the O ring and not the O ring sliding in the grove. It will do a little bit of both. The back block will shift to the left a bit and be out of alignment but function OK. The connecting hard steel threaded rod is wearing out the threads tapped into the the soft aluminium back block? It happens over time and requires the back block to be replaced. It is slowly stripping the treads out by working back and forth during recocking. HOWEVER, you can slow it down or eliminate much of it by adjusting the length of the ram to back block rod properly. I bet few players do it because it is such a pain. But if you have to fix it or have it apart for some other reason like an upgrade, do it right when you put it back together. So here goes: Most players make minor adjustments or intentionally put a GAP between the back block and receiver when the bolt is closed (to reduce noise0 by removing the bolt and turning the back block counterclockwise. Essentially loosening the rod in the threads. If you want to make an adjustment like that THIS is the way it should be done. Make sure the ram to back block steel rod is screwed and SEATED all the way into the back block. A little BLUE Loctite would help too, especially if you already have a LOT of thread wear. That is the current state of mine. When/IF I have to replace the back block on my OLD 98, I will admit to being CHEAP and plan to drill and tap the hole All the way though and HOPE there is enough extra length in the rod to Loctite the Whole rod in a little deeper on some FRESH New Threads. If it doesn't work, then I have to pop for a new back block anyway... OR make a longer connecting rod..... Hmmmmm. I have some unthreaded stock and a die. I AM CHEAP! I admit it.... THEN adjust your length at the Union attaching the steel rod to the ram. I don't know if they still do but WGP used to use RED Loctite on both ends of the union. Hence it was a REAL PAIN to adjust. You had to take the ram off and heat the union to get it apart and usually wind up frying the O ring seals inside the RAM in the process if you didn't get a wet rag around the extended ram shaft. Heat only the shaft Next to the union and keep the heat away from the extended ram shaft wrapped in a wet rag. Then of course the ram shaft wants to rotate so you have to put a pair of needle nose pliers on the shaft to hold it. If you aren't CAREFUL and hold it right AT the threads, you burger up the shaft where it goes INTO the seals and will promptly ruin them. Trust me on this..... Care also has to be given to avoid bending the ram shaft while trying to twist out the rod. Trust me on this too.... Make either mistake and you buy a new ram.. TRUST ME on this... Really! Once you get it apart and are ready to adjust it, I would complete my adjustment and then put ONE drop of BLUE Loctite on the OUTSIDE of the union where the two shafts go in. That is more than enough to keep them from rotating out of adjustment during recycling. That is why it is such a pain to do. Lets all hope WGP learns or has learned about BLUE Loctite. The autococker is NOT an exhaust manifold bolt. There is no need to use the high temperature, RED Loctite on the autococker.

Follow Ups: Post a Followup Show your name as: DefaultRealnameBothNickname E-Mail address (eg: joeschmoe@aol.com): Show your e-mail address? DefaultYesNo Your Password: Don't have a password? CLICK HERE - Forgot your password? CLICK HERE Subject: Subject:Message: : : Ok, IM having a few problums: : : (1) How do you properly adjust a three way, and how do you know when it is properly tuned in? : Look for an E mail from me how to do the TP Test. That will tell you when you have it RIGHT. : Lots of written instructions How to Time on the Internet. SOMEBODY direct him to one. I don't have them bookmarked. : ": (2) The Back block is being ground down by the rod coming out the back because the back block does not sit flush, it is slanted, how do you get it to be equal, then when I adjust the cocking rod the threads that screw in to the back block grind against the body, how do you fix that?" : : The ram to back block steel rod is wearing inside the grove of the receiver body? Normal but a small O ring slipped over the rod and some 3 in 1 oil will reduce this wear AND make it a little quieter recocking. You want the rod to slide inside the O ring and not the O ring sliding in the grove. It will do a little bit of both. The back block will shift to the left a bit and be out of alignment but function OK. : The connecting hard steel threaded rod is wearing out the threads tapped into the the soft aluminium back block? It happens over time and requires the back block to be replaced. It is slowly stripping the treads out by working back and forth during recocking. HOWEVER, you can slow it down or eliminate much of it by adjusting the length of the ram to back block rod properly. : I bet few players do it because it is such a pain. But if you have to fix it or have it apart for some other reason like an upgrade, do it right when you put it back together. : So here goes: : Most players make minor adjustments or intentionally put a GAP between the back block and receiver when the bolt is closed (to reduce noise0 by removing the bolt and turning the back block counterclockwise. Essentially loosening the rod in the threads. If you want to make an adjustment like that THIS is the way it should be done. : Make sure the ram to back block steel rod is screwed and SEATED all the way into the back block. A little BLUE Loctite would help too, especially if you already have a LOT of thread wear. That is the current state of mine. : When/IF I have to replace the back block on my OLD 98, I will admit to being CHEAP and plan to drill and tap the hole All the way though and HOPE there is enough extra length in the rod to Loctite the Whole rod in a little deeper on some FRESH New Threads. If it doesn't work, then I have to pop for a new back block anyway... OR make a longer connecting rod..... Hmmmmm. I have some unthreaded stock and a die. I AM CHEAP! I admit it.... : THEN adjust your length at the Union attaching the steel rod to the ram. I don't know if they still do but WGP used to use RED Loctite on both ends of the union. Hence it was a REAL PAIN to adjust. You had to take the ram off and heat the union to get it apart and usually wind up frying the O ring seals inside the RAM in the process if you didn't get a wet rag around the extended ram shaft. Heat only the shaft Next to the union and keep the heat away from the extended ram shaft wrapped in a wet rag. Then of course the ram shaft wants to rotate so you have to put a pair of needle nose pliers on the shaft to hold it. : If you aren't CAREFUL and hold it right AT the threads, you burger up the shaft where it goes INTO the seals and will promptly ruin them. Trust me on this..... : Care also has to be given to avoid bending the ram shaft while trying to twist out the rod. : Trust me on this too.... : Make either mistake and you buy a new ram.. : TRUST ME on this... Really! : Once you get it apart and are ready to adjust it, I would complete my adjustment and then put ONE drop of BLUE Loctite on the OUTSIDE of the union where the two shafts go in. That is more than enough to keep them from rotating out of adjustment during recycling. : That is why it is such a pain to do. : Lets all hope WGP learns or has learned about BLUE Loctite. The autococker is NOT an exhaust manifold bolt. : There is no need to use the high temperature, RED Loctite on the autococker. [ Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ WARPIG Tech Talk - Autococker / Minicocker ]