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WARPIG Tech Talk - Autococker / Minicocker

It would be a project

In Reply to: Trigger/Timing Rod help with vengeance 2.0 posted by trp86 on January 03, 2004 at 12:46:24:


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Posted by:
Dale "Head_Hunters" DuPont
on January 05, 2004 at 11:07:12

You MIGHT have some worn O rings in your 3 way. That is the first sign of wear. You did say it was USED...

If the O rings are worn they hiss if NOT perfectly aligned. However, I bought a super duper, high performance, shortened 3 way that was BRAND NEW that did the same thing. Could be 'normal' too. If you guys and gals ever wondered why the 3 ways are ALWAY LOOSE in most cocker front block is so the 3 way can wobble and self align during cycling. That is why it is a mistake to use Teflon or Loctite to prevent the 'wobbling'... It is supposed to be there.

Different Brand 3 way rods ARE made out of slightly different diameter stock material. By trial and error at your local store(S) you might find a brand that is just a tad bigger and would solve your problem. But MY Guess is the aftermarket grip manufacturers decided to make sure their triger plate hole was BIG Enough to take them ALL.

All you need is to keep the rod from shifting IN when you bump it with your finger.

For the sake of clarity this is for a right hander. Doubt a lefty would have this problem.

Some type of a spacer between the trigger plate and 90 degree bend on the 3 way rod might work. I don't have a hinge in front of me to see if there would be enough room not to bind or interfere on something else.

First thought in my mind would be some electrical shrink wrap tubing. Radio Shack. If the shaft as clean and oil free, it would grip the shaft when heated and stay put and not slide around with a finger touch. It could be trimmed to the right length with a razor blade if you made it a shade long on purpose. Even going aroung the corner with it to keep it from creeping on you would be a good idea if you have room. Then trim it.

My next thought would be lubing the trigger plate hole and very carefully apply a TINY dab of 4 minute epoxy glue on the freshly cleaned 3 way shaft. It might do the job. The hazard here should be obvious. I said TINY. But skip that, I have a better idea right below here...

Another thought that would apply to BOTH approaches, would be to just remove the grip and NOT remove the rod and thus require retiming.

Just put a pencil mark on the rod where you want your 'stop' to touch the trigger plate. Some careful application of masking tape on the 3 way rod up to where you put a pencil mark would allow you to control where the epoxy goes precisely.

If you time carefully when to remove the masking tape, it would be when the epoxy is set up enough NOT to run or sag, but still soft enough to tear. You just might wind up with a square edge of epoxy touching flush with the trigger plate.

The pencil mark wouldn't work with the shrink wrap tubing because it shrinks LENGTHWISE a little bit when heated too. Leave it long and trim to fit...

You can't make the hole smaller, but you CAN make the rod Bigger. Sort of..

For a different reason, on another project, I needed to have ZERO slack in the 3 way hole and 3 way rod. Being CHEAP I made one from out of stock that just happened to be Thicker than the stock 3 way. It was STILL too big. So I put it on a flat block of steel and hit the short section that goes into the trigger plate with my hammer a few times. It flattened it a tad and by doing so make it wider front to back. A little rap and fit, rap and fit, rap and fit and I had it TOO big. (My Luck.) Turned it 90 degrees and gave it a light tap and BINGO! It slipped in firmly and with a little twisting and oil, I had less than .001 clearance front to back and it didn't bind up.

You COULD make it Big on purpose and then just file it on the front or back edge to slip back in. If you had your pencil mark, you could file a little shoulder in the right place that would interfere with it sliding in too far causing the hissing.

That's all I can think of.

Dale

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