Posted by: Hydro2go on January 08, 2003 at 08:15:31

* OK Here goes. On the shoulder of most CO2 tanks are the stampings. Most read DOT 3AL 1800 followed be a series of numbers and then something that looks like 03 X0 97 The 3AL (Stands for Aluminum construction) followed by the maximum fill pressure (However, CO2 is measured by weight) then the serial number of that tank. The next series of numbers and letters is either the date of Manufacture or the ReTester's Hydro Date. The first two digits are the month, the second two over two letter and number is the Tester ID, and the last two digit is the year. Tank Hydro date expires on the last day of the Previous month. So if it were dated 07, it would need to be tested by 06/30 to be able to be filled. As of today if your CO2 tank has this date: 01 X000 98 It is out of date and cannot be filled. The only exception to this rule is some Chrome-Moly tanks. IF the stamp has the prefix "3E" it is exempt from hydrotesting. Your only other concern should be surface damage. On aluminum or steel tanks look for dents and gouges. It's your call as to whether to fill depending on the severity. BUT err to safety at all times. You can also check the following web site www.cylindersafety.com Hydro2go : Hello all. : I'm pretty new to this, having recently bought 4 markers for me and the kids. With having to drive 70 miles to get CO2 I bought a fill station, scale, and syphon tank, and have had great success so far. People in my area have now come out of the wood wook to play paintball since I can fill their tanks (for free:)). Having been a diver for years, I know the dangers of a pressurized tank and the risks involved with filling even a 9oz CO2 tank, and the differences in good ole air, and CO2 gas. The problem I have now, is that I don't know if the tanks people bring with them for me to fill have been in a fire, beaten, or otherwise abused. I have been told that they expire after 5 years, and alluminum cyliders expire after 3, but I cannot find any useful information in the DOT stamp other than it's rated working pressure. Can some one out there tell me how to read this stamp? I have refused to fill 2 tanks because they had dents in the side, and although the guy was a little let down, I did explain to him what happens when a tank decides to vent from the side and why I wouldn't fill it. Also without dismantling each tank, and inspecting it like they do in a hydro test, is there anything else a person might look for on the outside of the tank besides dents, gouges, and removed/un-readable capacity stickers?

Follow Ups: Re: CO2 Tank Expiration date chrome-moly nick "sniper_m98c" satinover 22:33:51 06/01/03 (0) Re: CO2 Tank Expiration date chrome-moly nick "sniper_m98c" satinover 22:33:18 06/01/03 (0) Post a Followup Show your name as: DefaultRealnameBothNickname E-Mail address (eg: joeschmoe@aol.com): Show your e-mail address? DefaultYesNo Your Password: Don't have a password? CLICK HERE - Forgot your password? CLICK HERE Subject: Subject:Message: : * OK Here goes. : On the shoulder of most CO2 tanks are the stampings. Most read DOT 3AL 1800 followed be a series of numbers and then something that looks like 03 X0 97 : The 3AL (Stands for Aluminum construction) followed by the maximum fill pressure (However, CO2 is measured by weight) then the serial number of that tank. : The next series of numbers and letters is either the date of Manufacture or the ReTester's Hydro Date. The first two digits are the month, the second two over two letter and number is the Tester ID, and the last two digit is the year. : Tank Hydro date expires on the last day of the Previous month. So if it were dated 07, it would need to be tested by 06/30 to be able to be filled. : As of today if your CO2 tank has this date: : 01 X000 98 It is out of date and cannot be filled. : The only exception to this rule is some Chrome-Moly tanks. IF the stamp has the prefix "3E" it is exempt from hydrotesting. : Your only other concern should be surface damage. On aluminum or steel tanks look for dents and gouges. It's your call as to whether to fill depending on the severity. BUT err to safety at all times. : You can also check the following web site : www.cylindersafety.com : Hydro2go : : : Hello all. : : I'm pretty new to this, having recently bought 4 markers for me and the kids. With having to drive 70 miles to get CO2 I bought a fill station, scale, and syphon tank, and have had great success so far. People in my area have now come out of the wood wook to play paintball since I can fill their tanks (for free:)). Having been a diver for years, I know the dangers of a pressurized tank and the risks involved with filling even a 9oz CO2 tank, and the differences in good ole air, and CO2 gas. The problem I have now, is that I don't know if the tanks people bring with them for me to fill have been in a fire, beaten, or otherwise abused. I have been told that they expire after 5 years, and alluminum cyliders expire after 3, but I cannot find any useful information in the DOT stamp other than it's rated working pressure. Can some one out there tell me how to read this stamp? I have refused to fill 2 tanks because they had dents in the side, and although the guy was a little let down, I did explain to him what happens when a tank decides to vent from the side and why I wouldn't fill it. Also without dismantling each tank, and inspecting it like they do in a hydro test, is there anything else a person might look for on the outside of the tank besides dents, gouges, and removed/un-readable capacity stickers? [ Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ WARPIG Tech Talk - Air ]