Posted by: Razorpb on November 19, 2002 at 18:31:28

No you won't have to retime when you clean. Try this method when pulling your hammer out, pull the bolt and drop your wrench into the hammer like your going to adjust it, try to line it up with a landmark, like pointing at the feed tube or lined up w/ the sight rail. Back it out 4 complete turns, the hammer will then slide out cleanly. Now you can pull your valve and clean everything up and lube. When you go to put it back together, line up with your landmark and screw it in 4 turns and you'll be back where you started. If you havn't had your asa milled so you can pull off you front block without unscrewing the trigger rod, seriously consider it, it will save you some headaches. My machinist does it for $20 I think, well worth it. Velocity adjustment: pull your cocking rod out and insert the correct size allen wrench in it's place only about an inch, screw in to increase velocity, back it out to decrease. Only reason to switch hoses is if you get an aftermarket 3-way like the Bomb, or other that have 3 orings on the 3-way shaft, or if you get a hinge frame. When I clean my cocker I pull the front block, valve, bolt, hammer and grip frame and use 50/50 rubbing alcohol and water to clean everything, let dry then put a drop of KC's synthetic on each oring. I use vaseline only on the bolt and nowhere else, just rub you fingers to get a little on them and rub it over the orings and shaft where it touches the top tube. The reg is internally adjustable if it's a stock WGP or external if it's an Ergo, you don't need to mess with it unless you do some low pressure work with a Maddman spring kit. Hope it helps. Razor : thanx for helping me last time. now something else i want to learn. now that i know how to time the cocker, will i have to retime it after everytime i lube/clean the gun after play? were the heck is the velocity adjustor and how do i adjust? i heard that you might need to switch the 3-way hoses sometimes-whats that all about? and please explain the best way to clean the cocker. : what is the regulator and what is it for/ is the reg adjustable? and finally i need help with the tank. every time i unscrew it (when theres alot of gas left over from the end of te dy) i waste a lot of gas. i try unscrewing as fast as i can but still wastes alot of gas. im really sorry to bother youre guy's time and i appreciate it.thanx

Follow Ups: Post a Followup Show your name as: DefaultRealnameBothNickname E-Mail address (eg: joeschmoe@aol.com): Show your e-mail address? DefaultYesNo Your Password: Don't have a password? CLICK HERE - Forgot your password? CLICK HERE Subject: Subject:Message: : No you won't have to retime when you clean. Try this method when pulling your hammer out, pull the bolt and drop your wrench into the hammer like your going to adjust it, try to line it up with a landmark, like pointing at the feed tube or lined up w/ the sight rail. Back it out 4 complete turns, the hammer will then slide out cleanly. Now you can pull your valve and clean everything up and lube. When you go to put it back together, line up with your landmark and screw it in 4 turns and you'll be back where you started. If you havn't had your asa milled so you can pull off you front block without unscrewing the trigger rod, seriously consider it, it will save you some headaches. My machinist does it for $20 I think, well worth it. Velocity adjustment: pull your cocking rod out and insert the correct size allen wrench in it's place only about an inch, screw in to increase velocity, back it out to decrease. Only reason to switch hoses is if you get an aftermarket 3-way like the Bomb, or other that have 3 orings on the 3-way shaft, or if you get a hinge frame. When I clean my cocker I pull the front block, valve, bolt, hammer and grip frame and use 50/50 rubbing alcohol and water to clean everything, let dry then put a drop of KC's synthetic on each oring. I use vaseline only on the bolt and nowhere else, just rub you fingers to get a little on them and rub it over the orings and shaft where it touches the top tube. The reg is internally adjustable if it's a stock WGP or external if it's an Ergo, you don't need to mess with it unless you do some low pressure work with a Maddman spring kit. Hope it helps. : Razor : : thanx for helping me last time. now something else i want to learn. now that i know how to time the cocker, will i have to retime it after everytime i lube/clean the gun after play? were the heck is the velocity adjustor and how do i adjust? i heard that you might need to switch the 3-way hoses sometimes-whats that all about? and please explain the best way to clean the cocker. : : what is the regulator and what is it for/ is the reg adjustable? and finally i need help with the tank. every time i unscrew it (when theres alot of gas left over from the end of te dy) i waste a lot of gas. i try unscrewing as fast as i can but still wastes alot of gas. im really sorry to bother youre guy's time and i appreciate it.thanx [ Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ WARPIG Tech Talk - Autococker / Minicocker ]