Posted by: Dale "Head_Hunters" DuPont on September 01, 2003 at 08:45:24

First you need to decide if you want an aftermarket grip or stay with the slide trigger. The hinges are popular along with the E grips but I am a fan of the slide. Total finger travel is 0.125". Much less than jerking on a hinge and not far away from a tweaked electro grip. You said rec and tourney play so this item is NOT that big a deal but worth mentioning should you venture into scenerio games. They play rain, shine, snow, short of lighting and tornadoes. The E-grips stay home. Strictly fair weather players. So don't toss your old grip away. It might come in handy for a rainy day.... For about $50 you can install a roller sear in the slide trigger. That should get your trigger pull resistance WAY Down into the sub 2 pound trigger. Very nice, especially for well aimed sniper shots. Butter smooth. I own a Smart Parts roller and happy enough with it but I would recommend the Besales. It is lighter and smoother. Like butter. A good barrel is usually high on players lists. The two stage bores are the more accurate barrels. Boomstick, Freak, JT, etc. etc. If quiet muzzle report will be important to you, get the All American by Smart Parts. The fronts are interchangable with the Freak Backs and can be ordered just that way if you want a Freak system. If you plan to play year round note, that ball diameters get smaller in the winter from many manufacturers. You favorite paint that works great in the summer will just roll out your barrel and onto the ground in the winter. If you play tourney ball or rec fields that don't allow you to bring your own paint, you will want to give some serious thought to the Freak system. If you have to use whatever brand they furnish, then you need a bore sleeve that will fit it. The only upgrade in the front end that is worthwhile in my opinion is a shortened 3 way. It will significantly reduce short strokes. An externally adjustable front reg is a Convenience item. The Stock reg is internally adjustable. Once you get it set to the minimum required to recock reliably you won't touch it. With a knob on the front, you will wish that knob on the front end didn't get bumped so much. Note how loose they are when ungassed. That is when the get moved. A ram is a ram and its force is determined by the front reg pressure. Stock is fine even for an electro full auto. Even though the cocker is a 'low pressure' marker (450-500 psi), there are benefits to having sub 300 psi operating pressures. You can use LP paint with super thin shells that would break out of a High Pressure marker. These paints are rounder, shoot more accuately and will break consistently on another play 10-15 yard farther out than HP paint. Extended range IS an advantage. You can get a break on a flapping shirt tail in a tournament with it too. It is VERY Expensive. LP will allow you to play break free in very cold weather - sub 30s. A good LP valve and spring set is about $50. You don't need an aftermarket reg. The stock is great and like the front reg, internally adjustable. I have one on my RPG set at 80 psi. It that low enough? You might want to invest in the quick disconnect Macrolines for your bottom line so it is easy to remove the reg cap on the bottom of the reg where the hose fit into. That is were you adjust the reg from. You will need a guage to use while you are setting up the LP system and tweaking it. You can insert a $15 1" diameter "Mini Gauge" into the plugged hole in the bottom of your front block facing down. Same Thread. A larger diameter gauge will interfere with the inline reg unless you install a 90 elbow in the plug hole and have the guage facing left or right.

Follow Ups: There's that "fair weather" comment again Dale... Razorpb 15:26:12 09/02/03 (3) Down in these parts they don't play. Dale "Head_Hunters" DuPont 19:58:27 09/02/03 (2) Understood.... Razorpb 15:30:45 09/03/03 (1) Re: Understood.... skunkboy 00:38:10 09/04/03 (0) Post a Followup Show your name as: DefaultRealnameBothNickname E-Mail address (eg: joeschmoe@aol.com): Show your e-mail address? DefaultYesNo Your Password: Don't have a password? CLICK HERE - Forgot your password? CLICK HERE Subject: Subject:Message: : First you need to decide if you want an aftermarket grip or stay with the slide trigger. : The hinges are popular along with the E grips but I am a fan of the slide. Total finger travel is 0.125". Much less than jerking on a hinge and not far away from a tweaked electro grip. : You said rec and tourney play so this item is NOT that big a deal but worth mentioning should you venture into scenerio games. They play rain, shine, snow, short of lighting and tornadoes. The E-grips stay home. Strictly fair weather players. So don't toss your old grip away. It might come in handy for a rainy day.... : For about $50 you can install a roller sear in the slide trigger. That should get your trigger pull resistance WAY Down into the sub 2 pound trigger. Very nice, especially for well aimed sniper shots. Butter smooth. I own a Smart Parts roller and happy enough with it but I would recommend the Besales. It is lighter and smoother. Like butter. : A good barrel is usually high on players lists. The two stage bores are the more accurate barrels. Boomstick, Freak, JT, etc. etc. : If quiet muzzle report will be important to you, get the All American by Smart Parts. The fronts are interchangable with the Freak Backs and can be ordered just that way if you want a Freak system. : If you plan to play year round note, that ball diameters get smaller in the winter from many manufacturers. You favorite paint that works great in the summer will just roll out your barrel and onto the ground in the winter. If you play tourney ball or rec fields that don't allow you to bring your own paint, you will want to give some serious thought to the Freak system. If you have to use whatever brand they furnish, then you need a bore sleeve that will fit it. : The only upgrade in the front end that is worthwhile in my opinion is a shortened 3 way. It will significantly reduce short strokes. : An externally adjustable front reg is a Convenience item. The Stock reg is internally adjustable. Once you get it set to the minimum required to recock reliably you won't touch it. With a knob on the front, you will wish that knob on the front end didn't get bumped so much. Note how loose they are when ungassed. That is when the get moved. A ram is a ram and its force is determined by the front reg pressure. Stock is fine even for an electro full auto. : Even though the cocker is a 'low pressure' marker (450-500 psi), there are benefits to having sub 300 psi operating pressures. You can use LP paint with super thin shells that would break out of a High Pressure marker. These paints are rounder, shoot more accuately and will break consistently on another play 10-15 yard farther out than HP paint. Extended range IS an advantage. You can get a break on a flapping shirt tail in a tournament with it too. It is VERY Expensive. LP will allow you to play break free in very cold weather - sub 30s. : A good LP valve and spring set is about $50. : You don't need an aftermarket reg. The stock is great and like the front reg, internally adjustable. I have one on my RPG set at 80 psi. It that low enough? You might want to invest in the quick disconnect Macrolines for your bottom line so it is easy to remove the reg cap on the bottom of the reg where the hose fit into. That is were you adjust the reg from. : You will need a guage to use while you are setting up the LP system and tweaking it. You can insert a $15 1" diameter "Mini Gauge" into the plugged hole in the bottom of your front block facing down. Same Thread. A larger diameter gauge will interfere with the inline reg unless you install a 90 elbow in the plug hole and have the guage facing left or right. [ Follow Ups ] [ Post Followup ] [ WARPIG Tech Talk - Autococker / Minicocker ]